Personal Tributes to Alan Blackshaw (1933-2011)
"Alan had tremendous humility and fierce resolve; he was a disciplined person in thought and action. We will miss his guidance and support, and his generous appreciation of the efforts of others." - Roger Payne "Alan Blackshaw turned up from time to time at the International Festival of Mountaineering Literature, which he also supported as AC President. Support from someone of his stature was encouraging to an event that was always at the margins. But he seemed to appreciate its value and symbolic function. "
I first read Alan Blackshaw's "Mountaineering" when I was 15. I read
it like one would read the bible. It inspired me to get into alpinism
but always "technical" not general mountaineering. I went on my first
expedition a year later to SE Iceland. Then for a period of 20 years I
went on an international climbing trip every year. The Himalayas,
Patagonia, Greenland, Baffin Island, Pamirs, you name I went there.
And all because of that book. Alan's book was my bible. "Alan was one of those remarkable people that influenced the lives of a
generation of outdoor enthusiasts. Not only did he contribute immensely to
the Alpine Club during his Presidency and when he was editor of the Alpine
Journal but he was also a major player in securing access rights in Scotland
and a formidable fighter for what he felt was right in life. "Alan was without fear of contradiction the outstanding servant and contributor to British Mountaineering of his generation.
His energy and brilliant gifts of organisation, to say nothing of his keen inteliigence, mark him out as exceptional.
He held so many key positions that to list them all is superfluous, but for me his work whilst BMC President
and his re-organisation of the Council, to make it fit for purpose, was his greatest contribution. "Alan Blackshaw's book, "Mountaineering", became an absolute mainstay to my early mountaineering activities when it was published in 1965 - as my very battered copy will testify. At that time I was a Boy Scout leader taking senior scouts into mountains; I soon became the County Mountaineering Advisor for Essex scouts and very involved wih training scout leaders (and preparing many to qualify for their Mountian Leadership Certificates). Myself and colleagues also led scout expeditions to the Alps, and mountains and icecaps in Iceland and Norway. And what did we know about mountaineering? Not enough despite our own hard-won experiences. "I was first aware of Alan at Merchant Taylors' School in Liverpool, though he was a few years older than me and would not have known me. He started climbing as a teenager, joined the CC at 20 and the AC at 21 when he was becoming one of the strongest young alpinists in the country. I met up with him over the years but especially from the 1990s at BMC, UIAA and AC meetings where I saw his enormous capacity for work, the clarity of his mind and his great charm and diplomatic skills. He was awarded the OBE for services to mountaineering in 1992 and I can't think of anyone who deserved it more." - Derek Walker "Alan Blackshaw changed my life. Whether for the better, I sometimes wonder. It was Alan who in late 2003 inveigled me to take on the editorship of the Alpine Journal. He knew what the job involved, for he himself had wielded the editorial blue pencil for three volumes (1968-70), but being a skilful persuader he rather underplayed it. I first knew Alan through the Eagle Ski Club, though more through conviviality in the bars of Scottish hotels on winter meets than time on the hill. We also shared an interest in access issues, I the journalist, he the campaigner. He could be a dogged opponent, as Scottish Natural Heritage discovered when he challenged their somewhat feudal view on rights of access to the hills. Alan advocated a ‘freedom to roam’, and in alliance with Dave Morris of Ramblers Scotland helped secure access laws that are the envy of walkers and climbers south of the border. I will miss the arrival in the post of those heavy A4 envelopes – or their email equivalent – with pages of forensic argument that signalled Blackshaw on another mission. Most of all I shall miss a good friend." - Stephen Goodwin "Alan Blackshaw and the British Alpine Ski Traverse 1972.
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