Research

Research where and how to find out the information you need to plan your trip. Having selected the country to visit the next requirement is for some research. Multiple resources are available to help with this.

Searching the premiere journals - the Alpine Journal, the American Alpine Journal, the Himalayan Journal and the Japanese Alpine News - for the region of interest is a good place to start. The first three of these are available on-line from the respective clubs that publish them: the Alpine Club; www.alpine-club.org.uk, the American Alpine Club; www.americanalpineclub.org, and the Himalayan Club; www.himalayanclub.org, and all are readily searchable.

Other major resources include the reports of Mount Everest Foundation supported expeditions (www.mef.org.uk), that are available on the web site of the British Mountaineering Council (www.thebmc.co.uk), and those of the Alpine Club Climbing Fund supported expeditions that are available on the Alpine Club web site.

In order to search for specific mountains the Himalayan Index, which is maintained by the Alpine Club and available on their web site, is another important resource. If you are lucky the Alpine Club photo-library may even have a picture of your intended mountain.

For more popular areas, such as the Andes, excellent guide books are available that provide not only route descriptions, but useful local information also. The Andes – a Guide for Climbers, by John Biggar, 1999, ISBN 1-871890-38-1 and Classic Climbs of the Cordillera Blanca, Peru, by Brad Johnson, 2003, ISBN 1-890437-90-5 are particularly recommended. Similarly, Friedrich Bender has published Classic Climbs in the Caucasus, 1992, ISBN 0-906371-59-7 which provides detailed route descriptions for selected mountains in the Caucasus range. With respect to the Indian Himalaya, Harish Kapadia, a recognised authority, has published a large number of books that provide invaluable information on the many areas that he has visited. For China and Tibet Tom Nakamura has produced a variety of articles and publications detailing unclimbed mountains in the Nyainquentanglha range and Sechuan. See also Östlich des Himalaya – Die Alpen Tibets, Tamotsu Nakamura, 2008, ISBN 978-3-937597-25-6, in German but an English version is expected.

Making contact with the leaders of past expeditions to the area that you have selected is the next step in choosing objectives appropriate to your requirements.

Indian Kistwar: recent information from Kimikazu Sakamoto
  Since 2007, I have been exploring the south of Zanskar and introduced the
veiled untrodden peaks. Already eight expedition parties went to South Zanskar
and enjoyed their first ascents.
From England, Imperial Collge London made several first ascents in Reru Valley
in 2011.  Scotish Expediton enjoyed their first ascnets in Giabul Nala in 2012.
In the comming summer of this year, Mr. Deruk Buckle and his friends are going
to have Zanskar Expedition to climb several virgin peaks in Temasa Nala,
focusing on P6107 (T9), P5957 (T10), P5908 (T11) and P6012 (T12).
He already submitted his application to IMF and is awating for Climbing Permit.
For your information, I am  sending my exploration report of Temasa Nala -
Gompe Tokpo - Hapatal Tokpo by the following web-site.
http://www.aack.or.jp/kaiinnope-ji/2012NOVsakamoto/Zanskar-E.html
Last year, I went to explore Kinner and Spiti and introduced the untrodden
virgin peaks in the follwoing web-site.
http://www.aack.or.jp/kaiinnope-ji/2014Octsakamoto-engl/Exploration%20in%20Kinner.html
I hope some young climbers will try to climb the virgin peaks also in these
areas.
Kimikazu Sakamoto

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