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150th AC Anniversary Expedition
In order to mark 150 years of the Alpine Club Harish Kapadia organised this expedition to the Kagbusandhi Valley in the Garhwal where members made first ascents of Danesh Parvat (5030m), Kankul Peak (5081m) and Peak AC 150 (5030m), named to commemorate the Club's anniversary.
The Alpine Club, celebrated its 150th year in 2007. To mark this milestone a trek cum climb was organised in the Garhwal with the members of the Himalayan Club. Four British climbers (Dave Wynne-Jones, Mick Cottam, Chris Astill and Mark Higton). and two Indians (Atul Rawal and Harish Kapadia, Hon. Member of the Alpine Club) participated.
Starting from Delhi they quickly reached Auli to acclimatise. The walk started on 26th May 2007 frory Govindghat, the popular starting point for Hernkund and the Valley of Flowers. En route on the first day’s trek we met Nanda SinhChauhan,now 94 years. He was with Frank Smythe in 1931and 1937 when Smythe discovered and worked in the Bhuidhar valley, which he named as the Valley of Flowers. Nanda Sinh was with Margaret Legge, a student of Smythe who died in the valley while gathering specimens.
Bifurcating from the main trail we climbed up in the Kagbhusandi valley in three days to camp at Chhaiyan Kharak (3815 m). From this camp, which acted as our base camp, the glacier was explored, pass reached and peaks were climbed. All along the mighty peaks of Hathi Parvat (6727 m) and Ghori Parvat (6709 m) were towering over the glacier, offering many opportunities for serious climbs.
2nd June 2007: Peak AC 150 (5030 m)
Party all four Britishers camped little below the Kankul Pass and climbed the peak via the north ridge. The peak is situated north of he pass. Keeping in view the historic occasion it was decided to call the Nanda Sinh peak "Peak AC 150"
8th June 2007: Danesh Parvat (5490 m)
This was the only officially named peak to be climbed. After ferrying loads a day earlier two members climbed from the southern glacier establishing two camps; one on the glacier and the other at 5000 m. The summit was reached via the west ridge and the east face. The summit was a rock pinnacle which good challenges.( Dave Wynne-Jones and Mick Cottam).
9th June 2007: Kankul Peak (5081 m)
This peak rose from Kankul Khal. After establishing one camp. The summit was reached via the north east ridge.The Kankul Khal was reached on 30th May from the Younghusband valley in the north. Even in June the pass was full of deep and loose snow which made it unsuitable for porters. Plans to cross the pass to descend towards Joshimath were given up. A new pass was noted at the head of the valley on the shoulder of Barmal peak. We saw pug marks of a snow leopard and a huge white bear near the camp was photographed. Many ibexes, monal and other birds were seen. A fitting way to celebrate the 150th year of tpe Alpine Club and strengthen its association with the Himalayan.
Harish Kapadia
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