Lectures & Events

Peak Lakes Edinburgh South West

For details of meets in the UK and abroad 
click here.

For lists of previous lectures and special events see Archives at the foot of this page.


LONDON LECTURES AND EVENTS    

2015
Tuesday 13 January. Jamie Goodhart: 2014 Kyrgyzstan Expedition
During this expedition the team successfully made first ascents of a significant number of peaks in the Djangart area of Kyrgyzstan before flying in to attempt the 7000m Khan Tengri. Jamie, a medical student, will be summarising the team's achievements and a new acclimatisation assessment procedure tested on the expedition.


Tuesday 27 January Jim Gregson: Exploring in Greenland
A kaleidoscopic look over more than twenty years of expeditions, first ascents, ski mountaineering and trekking in the Arctic. Signed copies of Jim's lovely book "Exploring Greenland" will also be on sale at the lecture.

 

 

 

Tuesday 10 February. John Porter: One Day as a Tiger - Alex MacIntyre and the Birth of Fast and Light Alpinism.
Inthe autumn of 1982, a single stone fell from high on the south face of Annapurna and struck Alex MacIntyre on the head, killing him instantly and robbing the climbing world of one of its greatest talents. Although only twenty-eight years old, Alex was already one of the leading figures of British mountaineering’s most successful era. His ascents included hard new routes on Himalayan giants like Dhaulagiri and Changabang and a glittering record of firsts in the Alps and Andes. Yet how Alex climbed was as important as what he climbed. He was a mountaineering prophet, sharing with a handful of contemporaries – including his climbing partner Voytek Kurtyka – the vision of a purer form of alpinism on the world’s highest peaks. One Day As A Tiger, John Porter’s revelatory and poignant memoir of his friend Alex MacIntyre, shows mountaineering at its extraordinary best and tragic worst – and draws an unforgettable picture of a dazzling, argumentative and exuberant legend.


Tuesday 24 February. Paul Ramsden: The NE Face of Hagshu

After over twenty years of waiting the North Face of Hagshu now has two routes, both by AC members. Here is the full story of Paul and Mick’s adventures on a very busy mountain!

Tuesday 10 March. Dick Turnbull: A Lifetime of Ice Climbing
A personal look at a long career of climbing ice from early days in the UK through long years of attempting alpine classics in winter to more recent efforts on European icefalls finishing with a recent trip to the classic cascades of the Canadian Rockies.

Tuesday 24 March. John Allen: My Golden Years in the Alps – 10 Routes To Do Before You Die
In forty years of alpinism you too can manage ten good routes. From early in the 1960s to 2000, John has returned countless times to his mountaineering home, the Valais, the Bernese Oberland and the Mont Blanc area. Plenty of long days amid great peaks helped Ken Wilson to select images here for “The High Mountains of the Alps”. More than this, the slightly lesser peaks became as appealing for their photographic viewpoints as for their remoteness. Middle grade climbers with basic experience can aspire to the increased adventure levels here with bivvies and bivvy huts for those magical overnight extras. Something for everyone here.

Tuesday 14 April 2015. Frank Nugent: In Search of Peaks, Passes and Glaciers
Irish Alpine Pioneers 1840 -1921: John Ball, John Tyndall, Charles Barrington, Anthony Adams-Reilly are names from the early days of The Alpine Club. All made notable first ascents during the Golden Age of Alpinism - Mount Pelmo, Weisshorn, Eiger and Aiguille d'Argentiére. Ball was first president of the Club and editor of the first series of Alpine Guides and of Peaks, Passes and Glaciers - the forerunner to the Alpine Journal. All were Irish and they were followed by many more including Elizabeth Hawkins-Whitshed, (Elizabeth Le Blond) who became one of the first Alpinists to specialise in winter ascents and to participate in an all-woman rope when she climbed Piz Palu in 1900 with Evelyn McDonnell and Charles Howard-Bury who led the first Everest reconnaissance in 1921. Frank, an alpinist and AC member with many Himalayan and polar expeditions under his belt, has researched and written a book having the same title to reveal the significant Irish contribution to the development of alpinism

 


Tuesday 28 April. Martin Boysen: Hanging on - NOW AT THE LONDON DINNER - NOT AT THE CLUBHOUSE - Details  
Over more than two decades Martin Boysen made huge contributions to British rock climbing, especially in North Wales where he discovered Gogarth in the 1960s. His numerous new routes, such as Nexus on Dinas Mot, The Skull on Cyrn Las and Capital Punishment on Ogwen’s Suicide Wall have become classics. He was also one of Britain’s leading mountaineers, taking part in Bonington’s teams on the South Face of Annapurna and on the South West face of Everest. In 1976 he made the first ascent of Trango Tower with Joe Brown. His newly published book, Hanging on, was shortlisted for the 2014 Bordman Tasker Prize.

Tuesday 12 May. Edith Kreutner: Exploring the unclimbed peaks of the Arabel Pass area of the Djetim Bel range, Kyrgyzstan
In August 2014, a 4 strong expedition of Austrian Alpine Club members embarked on an expedition to a so far hardly explored area. In her talk about the expedition, Edith focuses on pre-trip planning, Base Camp life, important considerations and of course, the stunning Kyrgyz mountains and how the expedition climbed many so far unclimbed peaks. Over the course of 17 days, they climbed many summits of various difficulty, were invited to the yurts of local shepherds, observed the local wildlife (amongst it Marco Polo sheep and eagles) and tasted local delicacies before returning home with bags full of wonderful memories.

Tuesday 23 June. Simon Verspeak: Adventures in Muzkol - Valley of Marco Polo and Snow Leopards
In the Summer of 2014, four friends headed to Tajikistan to attempt an ascent of the last 6000m peak in the Tajikistan Pamirs. This talk will illustrate the challenges and the delights of exploring this remote valley.

Tuesday 22 September 2015. Clare Roche: The Other Golden Age- the Nineteenth-century Development of Womens’ Climbing
Most people are familiar with the idea of the ‘golden age’ of mountaineering but this is implicitly male and many are unaware of women’s achievements. This talk considers both the quantitative and qualitative nature of women’s alpine climbing and their place within the mountaineering community as well as wider society in the nineteenth century. Women alpinists had their own defining decades.

Tuesday 13 October 2015. Paul Vardy
Paul will be talking about his successful expedition to Lumba Sumba in Nepal in 2014. Details to follow.


 

 

 

Tuesday 27 October. Christopher Norton: Edward Norton on Everest - Watercolours, Diaries and Documents from the 1922-4 Expeditions: Edward ('Teddy') Norton was a member of the 1922 Everest expedition and the leader of the 1924 attempt on the mountain. In 1922, climbing with Mallory and Somervell, he reached a then record height of 26,985ft. Two years later he set a world record without oxygen of 28,126ft, a record that stood for 54 years. A few days later, Mallory and Irvine disappeared high on the mountain: it fell to Norton to call off the search for them when all hope was lost. The qualities of leadership which he showed that year in the face of appalling adversities have led to him being regarded as one of the greatest of all Everest expedition leaders. A man of many parts, Norton was also a naturalist and a fine amateur artist. His Everest paintings and diaries have recently been published (Everest Revealed - The Private Diaries and Sketches of Edward Norton, 1922-24, edited by Christopher Norton, History Press, 2014), and a new edition of the expedition book will appear later this year, illustrated with additional documents from his personal Everest archive (The Fight for Everest, 1924, Vertebrate Press, 2015). The talk will consider some of the new insights into the pioneering Everest expeditions afforded by these previously unpublished sources, and will be illustrated by his watercolours and pencil sketches, which bring the expeditions vividly to life.

Tuesday 10 November. Julian Freeman-Attwood: The Great Mongolian Rescue
Details to follow.

2016

Tuesday 12 January 2016. Finn McCann: Great Elevations - a tale of adventure in high places
Sponsored Alpinist Finn McCann speaks of his personal quest for adventure which has taken him on more than 25 expeditions to all 7 continents. Finn will take his audience on a journey from grit E8's to Himalayan heights, Yosemite big walls to icy Alpine North Faces, and agonizingly slow ascents to high-speed descents.

Both General and Informal meetings at the club house in Charlotte Road start at 7:30pm, with the bar opening from 6pm. The library is usually staffed by volunteers between 5pm and 7pm. 

Occasional informal meetings provide a good opportunity for members to meet one another, and exchange news, views and information. New members and prospective members are particularly welcome. Prospective members are asked to contact the Administrator before attending.

The London lecture organiser is Derek Buckle.   Please contact Derek if you are interested in giving a lecture.

PEAK LECTURES  

2015
Wednesday 14 January. Paul Ramsden: Hagshu's North Face

Paul will be describing his recent first ascent of a new route on the north-east face of Hagshu in Kishtwar in the Indian Himalaya, climbed with Mick Fowler. Also features bears.


Wednesday 11 February. Adrian Dye & Hannah Moulton: Kyrgyzstan - Big horns, Big snowfall and Big unclimbed peaks

Adrian relates how an inexperienced and (mostly!) young British team travelled to a remote area of Kyrgyzstan in search of exploratory mountaineering. They returned with alpine rock routes up to HVS, alpine snow and ice routes to Difficile and six previously unclimbed summits
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Wednesday 11 March. Derek Buckle: Peruvian Classics - an Account of the 2014 AC Expedition to the Cordillera Blanca
Over four weeks in June 2014 ten members of the AC successfully climbed five peaks above 5000m in four separate valleys readily accessible from Huaraz, the Peruvian Chamonix. In this talk Derek will illustrate the opportunities available in this attractive region of the Andes and give an account of the team's achievements.

 

 

 

 

PEAK VENUE: 'Outside Cafe',  Hathersage, Derbyshire on Wednesdays at 7.30pm
Anyone who has had an interesting trip and would be prepared to lecture is invited to contact Edward Douglas.

LAKES LECTURES

2015
Wednesday 14th January. Peter Sterling: Canadian Ice
Pete has spent many years enjoying the frozen waterfalls of the Canadian Rockies. This lecture will take you from the early steps of learning new skills with old tools, to the consolidation of competency on roadside ice, to the wild off road adventure to remote ice in the Ghost River Wilderness. During this talk Pete will be giving a nod to the generosity of those who have provided inspiration and support along the way.


Tuesday 10th February. Malcolm Bass & Simon Yearsley: Janahut
Malcom and Simon report on their trips to the Indian East Karakoram (Rimo III attempt and Dunglung Kangri first ascent) and the Garwhal Himalaya (Janahut near miss).

Wednesday 11th March. Harriet Tuckey: Everest - The First Ascent:
The untold story of Griffith Pugh, the man who made it possible
The conquest of Everest by a British team in 1953 has always been celebrated as a triumph of heroic leadership, team work and courageous climbing, but the vital role that scientific innovation played in the success of the expedition has never been widely acknowledged.
Now, sixty years after the event, Harriet Tuckey tells the story of her father Dr Griffith Pugh, a physiologist and expert on extreme conditions, who made the first ascent possible by solving the key physiological problems of climbing at very high altitudes. In 1952 Griffith Pugh carried out pioneering physiological research on Cho Oyu, a mountain on the Nepal-Tibet border. On his return he devised a blueprint for success in 1953 – covering acclimatisation, diet and hydration and crucially the policy for the use of oxygen. In addition he designed or modified much of the clothing and protective equipment used on the expedition.

LAKES VENUE Hawkshead Brewery, Staveley, Near Kendal,LA8 9LR on Tuesdays at 7.30pm
Anyone who has had an interesting trip and would be prepared to lecture is invited to contact Laetitia Sterling

EDINBURGH LECTURES - Joint with the SMC & JMCS

2015
13th January. Members’ slides/images.
The traditional January ‘death slot’ is an opportunity to catch up on the adventures of 2014 as well as showing off achievements of the Xmas/New Year break. We have had excellent evenings in recent years so please come along and show that you are still getting out there. A ration of about 20 images per member, please.

10th February. Mick Fowler
A recent president of the Alpine Club, Mick is well known for his exploits in Scotland. His lectures and articles are characterised by much humour of the self-deprecating style. Don’t miss this one. This will be the Scottish premiere of Mick’s lecture. We don’t know what it is yet, but as he is attempting the unclimbed North Face of Hagshu in Kishtwar this autumn, some material from this adventure may end up on the screen here.

10th March. Peter Berg: Whymper’s Scrambles with a Camera
Peter is an AC member who will be showing this lecture in Scotland for the first time.The lecture is an introduction to and a re-creation of the magic lantern show that Whymper took all over the UK, Europe and the USA, using his own text and photographs 1870-1895. The lecture forms a complement to the book 'Whymper's Scrambles with a Camera' published by the Alpine Club in 2011: it has now been given 27 times, in various parts of the UK and Europe, though never in Scotland. Much of the lecture is devoted to the Matterhorn area so a viewing in 2015, the 150th anniversary of the first ascent, is most appropriate.

EDINBURGH VENUE:The Royal Overseas League, 100 Princes Street, Edinburgh EH2 3AB on the second Tuesday of the month from October to March at 7.30pm
This venue is easily accessible by public transport from Waverley Station or by bus. A lamppost a few yards from the door provides security for bicycles. Car parking is available in George Street and is metered until 630pm
.Anyone who has had an interesting trip and would be prepared to lecture is invited to contact Desmond Rubens

SOUTH-WEST LECTURES

2015
Tuesday 20 January. Derek Buckle: Peruvian Classics: an Account of the 2014 AC Expedition to the Cordillera Blanca

Over four weeks in June 2014 ten members of the AC successfully climbed five peaks above 5000m in four separate valleys readily accessible from Huaraz, the Peruvian Chamonix. In this talk Derek will illustrate the opportunities available in this attractive region of the Andes and give an account of the team's achievements.


Tuesday 17 February. Clare Roche: The Other Golden Age- the Nineteenth-century Development of Womens’ climbing
Most people are familiar with the idea of the ‘golden age’ of mountaineering but this is implicitly male and many are unaware of women’s achievements. This talk considers both the quantitative and qualitative nature of women’s alpine climbing and their place within the mountaineering community as well as wider society in the nineteenth century. Women alpinists had their own defining decades.

Tuesday 17 March. George Cave: Bristol Djangart Expedition 2013 - Bread, Chess & Mountains
Tales from the Bristol Djangart expedition to find unclimbed peaks on the Kyrgyz-Chinese border. During three weeks in Kyrgyzstan a team of six British climbers forded endless rivers, perfected bread baking on a gas hob, forgot which way up to hold the Union flag, learnt to drink vodka Kyrgyz style and built the finest latrine the valley had ever seen. Along the way they also climbed alpine style to summit seven previously unclimbed mountains up to 5200m in height..

SOUTH WEST VENUE: Upper Room of the Nova Scotia, Cumberland Basin, Hotwells, Bristol, BS1 6XJ
The Nova Scotia Hotel is a well-know Bristol landmark, situated at the western end of the Floating Harbour, with ample local parking and good beer. Lectures are normally on Tuesdays and start at 7.30pm. Click here for map
The SW Regional organisers are Tony Westcott, Adele Long and Chris Storie..

LONDON BUNKROOM

The club has a small bunkroom in the clubhouse basement containing four bunks for the use of members, aspirants and associates. There are no cooking facilities although a kettle is provided and there are restaurants and cafes nearby. The bunkroom is normally open except when the office is closed for the long Christmas and summer breaks. We cannot accept bookings from members for Friday and Saturday nights if they would be occupying the bunkhouse alone as the Club cannot provide emergency response over weekends.

There is no heating in the bunkhouse at night but there are a few blankets. Users must bring a sheet sleeping bag and are advised to bring a warm sleeping bag in winter.

Booking
Bookings should be made with the Club Administrator by e-mail or phone 0207 613 0755. If you do not get a reply, e-mail the Honorary Secretary as communications can sometimes go astray.   The office is normally manned on Tuesdays and Thursdays (although not every week), and bookings need to be made in advance so that arrangements may be made to obtain keys and instructions. There is no charge for the bunkroom however an advance deposit of twenty pounds is required. Keys must be returned within five working days of use. Regular users may apply for a set to retain for their own use.

While in occupation, members are responsible for the security of the building and have an obligation to familiarise themselves with evacuation instructions and Health and Safety requirements. Users, particularly sleeping alone, must not suffer any hearing, visual, or mobility impairments that might impact on their ability to recognize an alarm signal and delay their exit from the building in an emergency.

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LECTURE ARCHIVES

LECTURES AND EVENTS 2014

LECTURES AND EVENTS 2013

LECTURES AND EVENTS 2012

LECTURES AND EVENTS 2011

LECTURES AND EVENTS 2010

LECTURES AND EVENTS 2009

LECTURES AND EVENTS 2008

LECTURES AND EVENTS 1996-2008


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