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Lectures & Events 2009
Northern lectures South-West lectures and Special Events are at the bottom of this page.
For details of meets in the UK and abroad click here.
LONDON LECTURES AND EVENTS
Tuesday 13th January. Dave Wynne-Jones: Climbing in the Alps of Tibet
Dave will describe an attempt on Yangmolong, 6060m, one of the last remaining unclimbed 6000m peaks in Sechuan. During the expedition the team were fortunate in having an opportunity to share something of the lives of the local Tibetan people.
Tuesday 27th January. Derek Buckle & Martin Scott: Adventures in the Obra Valley
Together with Toto Gronlund and Bill Thurston our team of four visited the remote Obra Valley in the Garhwal Himalaya in October in the hope of climbing one or more of the many unclimbed 5000m peaks in this area. While deep snow and poor visibility prevented the ascent of our primary objective, we extensively explored the upper Devkir Glacier and made the first ascent of Peak 5165m overlooking the Supin Valley. Photos of this attractive valley and its surrounding peaks will be shown.
ime with the local population and he will share something of the lives of these people.
Tuesday 10th February. Tom Nakamura: The Mystery Rivers of Tibet - A Photographic Odyssey in the Deep Gorge Country
Our Member Tamotsu Nakamura is well known for his stunning mountain photography in the remote areas of Eastern Tibet that have been such an inspiration to a generation of explorers and climbers. In this talk he will be presenting a selection of his superb photographs and recounting some of his exploits in this exotic region. Tamotsu is the recipient of numerous awards and accolades, most recently the RGS Busk Medal and Honorary Membership of the AC.
Tuesday 24th February. Mike Mortimer: Explorations on the North Side of Jebel El Kest - a new rock-climbing area
Claude Davies' guide "Climbing in the Moroccan Anti-Atlas" covers mainly the south side of Jebel El Kest close to Tafraout. Since the publication of that guide many teams have visited the area and this lecture will give an account of the superb relatively unspoilt valleys bordering the massif to the north. The quartzite of the area is of excellent quality well-suited to the use of traditional protection and gives climbs up to about 650m in length.
Tuesday 10th March. Mick Fowler: Vasuki Parbat - The Judgment Game
In Autumn 2008 Mick and his climbing partner Paul Ramsden successfully battled with the permits and regulations necessary to attempt an unclimbed face on the 6792m high Vasuki Parbat in the Uttarakhand District of India. After a long trek from the roadhead at Gangotri to their base camp by Lake Vasuki Tal they were forced to endure their usual quota of uncomfortable bivouacs and extreme cold before they eventually conceded that in this instance the mountain had won. In his inimitable style Mick will describe the viscitudes of the attempt.
Tuesday 24th March. Bar Room Mountaineers - Dennis Gray & Paul Cherry
Bar Room Mountaineers: Dennis Gray and guitarist Paul Cherry have produced a CD of climbing songs and plan to give a talk and perform some of the numbers, including several by the renowned raconteur Tom Patey, from their repertoire. This should be a very enjoyable and different kind of evening.
Tuesday 28th April. Rufus Duits: Karakoram Solo
Rufus Duits is one of the younger climbers (only 29) who has done quite a
bit of solo climbing in the Greater Ranges. Between September and October 2008, He travelled alone to the
Hispar Muztagh region of Pakistan's Karakoram hoping to make the first
ascent of the inspiring Hispar Sar, 6400m. His attempt was stopped short of
the summit by precarious conditions, but consolation was achieved with the
first ascent of Emily Peak, 5684m. Along with beautiful slides from the
trip and tales of adventure, the talk will examine Rufus' motivations for
solo climbing and his thoughts on style in the mountains.
Tuesday 12th May.
Hywel Lloyd: The Story of the Alpine Ski Club - 1908-2008
Our member Hywel Lloyd will reveal the story of how skis came from Norway to the Alps in the 1890s and how Mathias Zdarski subsequently developed the ski technique for steeper places. With skis, pioneering winter alpine mountain trips became possible in the 1900s and the Alpine Ski Club was founded in 1908 to exploit this new opportunity. Hywel's talk will include old photographs and posters and describe important long traverses of the Alps and other ranges. It will be filled with names familiar to all from both the past and present and culminate in the Centenary celebrations that were held in the Oberland last Spring.
Tuesday 9th June. The Himalayan Club: 80 Years on Top
This is a spectacular 30 min film specially commissioned by the Himalayan Club to cover its 80 year history. It will be introduced by HC member (and AC VP) Martin Scott with a few slides of last year's Club events both in the Garwhal and in Delhi. It will also be of interest to any member thinking of visiting and climbing in remote (or less remote) areas of the Indian Himalaya.
Tuesday 23rd June. First Ascents in the Forbidden Range. George Margesson & others.
In August and September 2008, five Oxford University students battled burocracy, drunken drivers, and deep snow to explore a remote and little-known corner of Kyrgystan's Tien Shan range. They achieved a number of first ascents of alpine-style peaks over six weeks.
Tuesday 8th September. Dave Cowell: Ski-touring in the Outer Reaches of Europe
Dave is an active member of the Eagle Ski Club who has visited many less frequented ski-touring areas over a number of years. In this talk he will be describing recent tours that he has made to the eastern mountains of Turkey and to the Prokletiji Mountains of Albania.
Tuesday 22nd September. Don Bowie: K2 - 2007 Ascent of the Savage Mountain
This will be an exceptional talk. Don is a remarkable young Himalayan climber with recent expeditions to Annapurna 2008, K2 2007, Cho Oyu 2006, Broad Peak 2005, Distaghil Sar 2008, Broad Peak Winter 2008, and earlier this year Gasherbrum III & IV. Don will cover his new route attempt of K2 and subsequent ascent by the Abruzzi and his epic descent with stolen crampons and his broken leg. He is also one of the first climbers to be commended for selfless behaviour on the mountain under the Club’s “Spirit of Mountaineering” initiative. An evening not to be missed.
Tuesday 27th October - Reine-Marie Faure: The Life & Travels of James David Forbes
Reine-Marie is a geographer who has extensively researched the life and travels of the Scottish mountaineer James David Forbes. In this lecture she will focus on one of Forbes' most productive summers. In 1842 he not only crossed the Col du Geant from Courmayeur to Montenvert in a remarkable 15 hours, but by zig-zagging between Chamonix and Zermatt he also mapped the Mer de Glace and the Alpine massif between these two major resorts.
Thursday 5th November - Mount Everest Foundation Lecture at the RGS
A lecture by explorer, broadcaster and author, Paul Rose at the RGS and in aid of the Mount Everest Foundation - for further details click Here
Tuesday 10th November. James Thacker and Andy Turner: Mixed Emotions on Phari Lapcha
In November 2008 James and Andy visited the popular Gokyo Valley in Nepal with the aim of making an alpine style ascent of the North Face of Phari Lapcha, 6017m. Unfortunately, unconsolidated snow resulted in retreat and uncertainty as quite what to do next. The result was the third ascent of the fantastic Snotty's Gully on the adjacent Dawa Peak (or Phari Lapcha West).
Both General and Informal meetings at the club house in Charlotte Road start at 7:30pm, with the bar opening from 6pm. The library is usually staffed by volunteers between 5pm and 7pm. |
Please contact the organiser (below) if you are interested in giving a lecture to the Alpine Club. |
Informal meetings provide a good opportunity for members to meet one another, and exchange news, views and information. New members and prospective members are particularly welcome. Prospective members are asked to contact the Administrator before attending. |
The London lecture organiser is Derek Buckle. |
NORTHERN LECTURES & EVENTS
Wednesday 14th January. Dennis Gray & Paul Cherry - Bar Room Mountaineers: The History of Climbing Songs.
An evening of story and song, looking at the long history and tradition of climbing songs, starting with Geoffrey Winthrop Young's Pen-y-Pass parties at the beginning of the last century, the work of lyricists like George Basterfield, and John Hirst of the Rucksack Club who wrote over 200
parodies. After the war there was a tradition of singing and writing songs among many clubs, like the Creagh Dhu, the Rock and Ice, the Bradford Lads and the Mynydd Club. There were also many individual singer/song-writing climbers, the most outstanding of whom was Tom Patey. His witty lyrics are now the stuff of legend: 'Onward Christian Bonington¹; 'The Legend of Joe Brown'; 'The Peter Crew' song and many more. Song performances by Paul Cherry and Dennis Gray, and recordings of Tom Patey re-mastered from a 40-year-old tape by Paul at his Cotswold Studio. Many of these songs are included on the recently released CD 'The Bar Room Mountaineers¹, available for sale on the night.
Wednesday 11th February. Mick Fowler: Vasuki Parbat - The Judgment Game
In Autumn 2008 Mick and his climbing partner Paul Ramsden successfully battled with the permits and regulations necessary to attempt an unclimbed face on the 6792m high Vasuki Parbat in the Uttarakhand District of India. After a long trek from the roadhead at Gangotri to their base camp by Lake Vasuki Tal they were forced to endure their usual quota of uncomfortable bivouacs and extreme cold before they eventually conceded that in this instance the mountain had won. In his inimitable style Mick will describe the viscitudes of the attempt.
Tuesday 17th February Special Lecture: Eastern Tibet: Mystery Rivers and Unclimbed Peaks - Tamotsu Nakamura - Introduced by Doug Scott
7.30 pm, George Hotel, Penrith. Entry £5 on the door.
The stunning photographs of Tamotsu ‘Tom’ Nakamura, mountaineer and explorer, have unveiled the extraordinary potential for first ascents in the little known ranges of eastern Tibet and have been an inspiration to alpinists such as Mick Fowler. Tom, editor of the Japanese Alpine News, will present a selection of his superb photographs and recount his exploits in this exotic region. Tom will be introduced by Doug Scott.
All profits will go Community Action Nepal, the charity set up by Doug to help the people of the middle hills of Nepal to help themselves raise their standard of living and strengthen indigenous, community-based culture. The event has been jointly organised with the Eden Valley Mountaineering Club, (www.evmc.co.uk)
Wednesday 11th March. Paul Pritchard: The Longest Climb
Twice winner of the Boardman-Tasker Award, and a leading British rock climber and mountaineer in the 1980s and 1990s, Pritchard's career was interrupted in 1998 by a near-fatal accident on the Totem Pole in Tasmania. Paul will be talking about his rock climbs and mountain routes, including first ascents and attempts in Patagonia, Baffin Island and the Himalaya, and his recovery which he describes as 'my life's achievement' and his continuing adventures.
Wednesday 14th October. Imperial College Adventures in East Greenland.
In August this year four students from Imperial College, with a grant from the Alpine Club, headed to the Arctic to attempt unclimbed mountains in the North-West of Renland, East Greenland. Despite their food and equipment getting stuck in Denmark, they managed to escape after a week’s delay via speedboat out to Renland. In the remaining two and a half weeks they explored the coast up to the ice-cap, did a number of first ascents and new routes, and completed a study of the region’s flora.
Wednesday 11th November. James Thacker: Mixed Emotions on Phari Lapcha.
In November 2008 James Thacker and Andy Turner visited the popular Gokyo Valley in Nepal with the aim of making an alpine style ascent of the North Face of Phari Lapcha (6017m). Unfortunately, unconsolidated snow resulted in retreat and uncertainty what to do next. The result was the third ascent of the fantastic Snotty's Gully on the adjacent Dawa Peak (or Phari Lapcha West).
Sunday 22nd November at Kendal Film Festival. James Thacker: Mixed Emotions on Phari Lapcha.
There will be lectures by the AC, MEF, and BMC 4pm to 6pm. The AC lecture will be given by our member James Thacker.
Wednesday 16th December. Steve Dean: The Life of Colin Kirkus.
Steve Dean, biographer of Colin Kirkus, gives an overview of the life of one of British climbing¹s key figures. 2010 is the centenary of Colin¹s birth and Steve will describe the important contribution he made to the sport in the decade before the Second World War.
NORTHERN LECTURE VENUE: 'Outside Cafe', Hathersage, Derbyshire on Wednesdays at 7.30pm
Anyone who has an interesting trip they are prepared to lecture on is invited to contact Edward Douglas |
SOUTH-WEST LECTURES & EVENTS
Tuesday 20th January. Dr James Milledge: 48 years of High Altitude Research - My life and hard times.
This is instead of the lecture by Simon Clark previously advertised.
Tuesday 10th February - Pat Littlejohn OBE : 'Ethiopian Adventure Rock'
Introduction to a New adventure climbing destination - the Tigray province of northern Ethiopia. Great scenery, a unique culture and very challenging climbing on desert sandstone towers and big walls of quarzite and basalt.
Tuesday 10th March - Dr David Hillebrandt: ' A Neurotic's Guide to High Altitude, Alpine and Expedition Medical Problems'
After a short Powerpoint introduction, David Hillebrandt (BMC Hon Medical Advisor, UIAA Medcom Vice president and holder of the UK Diploma of Mountain Medicine) will run a question and answer session on all and any aspect of mountain medicine. Come and share your personal medical problems. A neurotic climber's dream session.
Tuesday 17th November. Dave Wynne-Jones & Adele Long: MOUNT KENYA & BOLIVIA
Our Meets Secretary, Dave Wynne-Jones, with Adele Long on MOUNT KENYA & BOLIVIA give accounts of two of this year’s overseas trips; Adele will describe the Mount Kenya trip in January and Dave will cover the Bolivia trip in July. Dave’s also keen to hear any ideas for future AC meets, so put your thinking hats on and start dreaming!
SOUTH WEST VENUE: Upper Room of the Nova Scotia, Cumberland Basin, Hotwells, Bristol, BS1 6XJ
The Nova Scotia Hotel is a well-know Bristol landmark, situated at the western end of the Floating Harbour, with ample local parking and good beer. Lectures start at 7.30pm. Click here for map
Alpine Club SW Regional organisers are Colin Knowles, Tony Westcott and Craig Cook |
OUT OF LONDON MEETS AND EVENTS
AGM and Shap Wells Dinner 28th November 2009
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