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Archive Lectures & Events 2011
Northern lectures South-West lectures and Special Events are at the bottom of this page.
For details of meets in the UK and abroad click here.
LONDON LECTURES AND EVENTS
Tuesday 11 January. Jonathan Phillips, Philip Leadbeater, Kunal Masania and Andrew McLellan: Imperial Adventures in the Indian Himalaya
:Members of the Imperial College Obra Valley 2010 expedition will recount the stories behind the ascents of three unclimbed peaks over 5400m in the little visited Obra Valley, located to the west of the Bandarpunch-Swargarohini Group in India's far Western Garhwal. The illustrated lecture will feature stunning photos and videos of the region which still contains many unclimbed objectives over 5,000m.
Monday 17th January. Madeleine Sorkin: Her 2010 big wall ascents in Yosemite and on Mt. Proboscis Cirque of the Unclimbables, Canada
Madeleine, 28, has been a member of the American Alpine Club since 2002 and has achieved first female ascents of many grade 5.12 / 5.13 multi-day big wall climbs in North America with all-female teams. It will be a great opportunity to hear an up-to-date presentation on big wall climbing and to see the 26 minute film made on Mt. Proboscis premiered Dec 9th at Bozeman IceFest, Montana.
Since June this year Madeleine has completed a 3-day free ascent of Lurking Fear on the left side of El Capitan, Yosemite; the first female free-ascent of Free Rider, a 2900 feet - 37 pitch - 5.12 variation on Salathe Wall on the SW Face of El Cap over 5-days, and the first free ascent of the South East Face of Mt. Proboscis, Cirque of the Unclimbables, North West Territories, Canada.
A similar line on Mt. Proboscis was aided in 1963 by Layton Kor, Jim McCarthy, Dick McCracken and Royal Robbins. The all-female free ascent (with Emily Stifler and Lorna Illingworth), 2000 feet, 16 pitches, grade 5.12 (7 pitches over 5.10) spanned 25 days. The named their route "Women-at-Work".
Madeleine also features in the recent promotional video for the AAC "Not Just For Old Farts" in which she appears along with Yvon Chouinard (Hon Mem AC). Google: "Old Farts" AAC to see it on YouTube
Tuesday 25th January. Colin Beechey: Alpine Classic Routes and Grandes Courses
Colin has had over 40 short Alpine holidays, of only two weeks duration or less, starting as a teenager in 1968 to the present time. For most of this period Colin was attracted to the great historical climbs, ridges and traverses, regardless of the height of the mountain. By the time he discovered there was a list of the 4000ers he realised he had already climbed most of them by their ‘Grandes Courses’ or classic routes, using the normal routes for descents. He completed his round of the main 4000ers plus a large number of subsidiary summits in 2000, in order to continue seeking out the great classic alpine climbs on lesser peaks. His talk will include a selection of his most memorable classic climbs including the Hirondelles Ridge (Grande Jorasses), Zmutt Ridge (Matterhorn), Viereselsgrat (Dent Blanche), North Ridge (Weisshorn), Scercsen Eisenase/Bernina Traverse, Peuterey Ridge (Mont Blanc, Aig Blanche), Corda Molla (Disgazia), Lenspitze North face/Nadelgrat
.Tuesday 8 February. Simon Thompson: Unjustifiable Risk? The story of British climbing
Simon will be illustrating some of the examples described in his recently published book of the same name which has been shortlisted for this year's Boardman-Tasker prize for mountaineering literature. Signed copies of the book will be available on the night.
Tuesday 22nd February. Graham Bowley: No Way Down
Graham, a journalist, will be recounting the story of one of the biggest mountaineering disasters ever when in August 2008 eleven of the world's best climbers lost their lives on K2 after a massive avalanche swept away their fixed lines following an otherwise successful attempt on the summit. His book of the same name is to be published in January 2011 and will be available for sale on the night.
Tuesday 8 March. Andy Cave: The Thin White Line
Andy will be giving a talk based on the sequel to his award-winning book Learing to Breathe, in which he takes us from the Peak District to the Himalaya, from Norway to Patagonia and from the European Alps to Alaska, in the company of many of today's leading mountaineers and climbers. He will describe the personal challenges that he has had to overcome in order to return to extreme climbing following the death, on Changabang, of his climbing partner, Brendan Murphy.
Tuesday 22 March. Phil Wickens & Mike Fletcher: The 2010 AC Expedition to Antarctica.
Phil and Mike will be presenting an illustrated account of the AC Expedition to Antarctica in November-December 2010 in which the team climbed eight mountains, six of which were first ascents graded up to Alpine D+. No doubt there will be gory details of the yacht trip across the Drake Passage, which is reputed to be the most unforgiving stretch of water on the planet.Tuesday 12 April. Mick Fowler: Sulamar
Mick will talk about his ascent last October with Paul Ramsden, of the north face of Sulamar (5380m) in the rarely visited Chinese Tien Shan. Theirs was only the third climbing party to visit this fantastic area which is ripe for exploratory mountaineering - and also has amazingly hot springs. It also has a remarkable old trade route across the range - the Xiate Trail.
Tuesday 10 May. Matthew Traver: Kyrgyzstan - First ascents in the Djangart Region.
In July and August 2010 an Anglo-American expedition visited the rarely frequented Djangart region of Kyrgyzstan's Central Kokshaal-Too range. During their three weeks in the area they scaled three previously unclimbed 4800 - 5000m+ peaks. Join Matt Traver, British leader of the expedition, as he shares his stories and uncovers the potential in these lesser-known mountains.
Tuesday 24 May. John Town: Exploration Technology in the Eren Habirga
John, who has recently become AC Hon. Sec, lives a parallel existence as an exploratory mountaineer. Last September he travelled alone to the Chinese Tien Shan to venture into the beautiful and unexplored Eren Habirga mountains, which, with the neighbouring Borohoru range, stretch northwest for 300 miles from Urumchi to the border with Kazakhstan. He will talk about what proved to be an eventful trip and use it to illustrate how recent developments in navigation and communications technology has transformed the business of mountain exploration.
Thursday 9th June - 7p.m. at The Royal Gographical Society.
The Himalayan Trust UK presents the 3rd annual Sir Edmund Hillary Memorial Lecture. The main speaker will be Stephen Venables who, in 1988, became the first Brit to climb Everest without supplementary oxygen. 'Shipton Country: in the steps of Eric Shipton, the 20th Century's greatest mountain explorer.'
Special guest Dr Mike Gill will talk about the early days of the Himalayan Trust, the 'Silver Hut Expedition' and their first ascent of Ama Dablam in 1961.
Proceedings chaired by George Band OBE, who, at 24 years old, was the youngest member of the 1953 Everest expedition, with thanks by Rebecca Stephens MBE, the first British woman to climb Everest.
Please support this charitable fund raising event at the Royal Geographical Society (Exhibition Road entrance, doors open 6pm, cash bar and snacks available) Tickets £17.50 can be purchased online or by post - contact Tony Astill tel. 02380 293767 or email astill.tony@gmail.com
Tuesday 14 June. Matthew Hing: Exploratory Mountaineering in the
Indian Himalaya
Matt, the Expedition Leader, will present an account of the Army
Mountaineering Association's recent expedition to Himachal Pradesh, India.
In October and November 2010 his team of eleven attempted unclimbed peaks in
the Zanskar Range. They backed-off several, failed on one and made a first
ascent of Peak Shere Khan, 5936m. In the midst of unseasonal weather they
were forced south and completed the expedition with an ascent of Hannuman
Tibba, 5928m. Join Matt as he recounts the highs and lows of six weeks in a
fantastic area of India with huge potential.
Tuesday 28 June. Derek Buckle: In the Realm of the Bear and Snow Leopard
In the Autumn of 2010 five members of the AC visited the Jiwa Nala region of the Great Himalayan National Park to become the first party to explore the heavily glaciated region at the valley head. In the company of Himalayan bears and snow leopards the team trekked for 5 days to establish a base camp in the valley from where they successfully made the ascent of four unclimbed peaks on the head wall cirque.
Tuesday 12 July. Jim Milledge and Jeremy Windsor: A Comfortable Mountain for Research
A Celebration of the Centenary of the Pikes Peak Expedition. Coincidentally, this is the actual date of the centenary when J S Haldane led a team of physiologists to the summit of Pikes Peak (July 12th 1911) in the American Rockies in order to study the effects of altitude on human physiology. Jim and Jeremy will be marking the occasion with a talk about the expedition.
Tuesday 13 September 2011. Guy Wilson & Chris Johnson: 'Sourdough Education' in the Alaskan Hayes Range
Although unseasonable snowfall in Alaska's Hayes Range prevented them getting to grips with their original objectives, at the '11th hour' Neil Warren and Guy Wilson snatched a possible first ascent of the North East Face Direct on Mt Geist (3,268m). Supported by grants from the BMC, MEF, Alpine Club and a Berghaus Adventure Challenge award, Warren and Wilson, together with third team member Chris Johnson, flew into the Hayes Glacier at the end of April.
Tuesday 27 September. Stuart Howard & Dave Swinburne: Alpine Snoozing
Reflecting on various trips to Greenland, Kyrgyzstan and Alaska, Stuart and Dave are amazed and grateful for their support from the BMC and MEF. Stuart is grateful that it allows him to pursue his favoured activity of Alpine Snoozing, but the two are amazed that applications for such funding are not greater in number. The talk is aimed at the more 'moderate' alpinists amoungst us, and will illustrate, and hopefully encourage, the exploration of new and reasonable objectives in remote places.
Tuesday 11 October. Peter Berg & Ian Smith: A Whymper Evening
To mark the centenary of the death of Edward Whymper in Chamonix on 12 September 1911, Peter will be launching his AC publication 'My Scrambles with a Camera' accompanied by a reconstruction of Whymper's magic lantern lecture and a selection of slides. He will be supported by Ian who has recently published a new biography of Whymper, 'In the Shadow of the Matterhorn'. Signed copies of both books will be available on the evening and there is rumour of the offer of some wine.
Tuesday 25 October. Jennifer Jordan: Last Man on the Mountain - the Death of an American Advenurer on K2 CANCELLED
In 1939 K2 claimed its first victim. Born into vast wealth yet unwilling to settle for merely a life of leisure, Dudley Wolfe, of Boston and Maine, set out to become the first man to climb the world’s second-highest mountain. After two months on the mountain and suffering from altitude sickness and severe dehydration, he was abandoned at nearly 25,000 feet; it would be another sixty-three years before writer-filmmaker Jennifer Jordan discovered his remains on the glacier below K2. In a story of passion and peril, Jennifer brings Wolfe and the infamous 1939 American K2 expedition to life through rare 16mm footage and photographs from the expedition and has entertained full houses from Boston, New York, and Washington to LA, Portland, and Seattle, including the Explorers Club in NY, Boston's Museum of Science, and the National Geographic headquarters in Washington DC. Her second book, LAST MAN ON THE MOUNTAIN, details Wolfe's life from birth to his grueling death on the uppermost reaches of K2. It recently won the coveted National Outdoor Book Award.
Tuesday 8 November. Roger Smith: A Shackleton Odyssey retracing some of his epic journey, including the South Georgia Traverse:
In early 2011 Roger and 10 others took to boats in the Weddell Sea to trace some of the journey taken by Shackleton in 1914 when the destruction of his ship, the Endurance, forced him to sail from Elephant Island before making the then unknown traverse of South Georgia to get help at the Stromness whaling station on the other side of the complex mountainous region. Favoured by superb weather, but with hard snow and ice conditions, crevasse negotiation was just one of the problems that the team had to surmount. Few parties have repeated this eponymous journey and Roger will be recounting the team's experiences during the crossing.
Tuesday 22 November. Malcolm Bass: The first ascent of the West Face of Vasuki Parbat
In October 2010 Malcolm Bass and Paul Figg made the first ascent of this 1600m face in Garwhal. Various things were dropped or fell, including leaders, rocks and cameras. So the talk is illustrated partially by slides and art from 2010, and partially by slides from the 2008 attempt by Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden.
Both General and Informal meetings at the club house in Charlotte Road start at 7:30pm, with the bar opening from 6pm. The library is usually staffed by volunteers between 5pm and 7pm. |
Occasional informal meetings provide a good opportunity for members to meet one another, and exchange news, views and information. New members and prospective members are particularly welcome. Prospective members are asked to contact the Administrator before attending. |
The London lecture organiser is Derek Buckle. Please contact Derek if you are interested in giving a lecture. |
NORTHERN LECTURES & EVENTS
Wednesday 12th January. Colin Beechey: Alpine Classic Routes and Grandes Courses
Colin has had over 40 short Alpine holidays, of only rwo weeks duration or less, starting as a teenager in 1968 to the present time. For most of this period Colin was attracted to the great historical climbs, ridges and traverses, regardless of the height of the mountain. By the time he discovered there was a list of the 4000ers he realised he had already climbed most of them by their ‘Grandes Courses’ or classic routes, using the normal routes for descents. He completed his round of the main 4000ers plus a large number of subsidiary summits in 2000, in order to continue seeking out the great classic alpine climbs on lesser peaks. His talk will include a selection of his most memorable classic climbs including the Hirondelles Ridge (Grande Jorasses), Zmutt Ridge (Matterhorn), Viereselsgrat (Dent Blanche), North Ridge (Weisshorn), Scercsen Eisenase/Bernina Traverse, Peuterey Ridge (Mont Blanc, Aig Blanche), Corda Molla (Disgazia), Lenspitze North face/Nadelgrat.
Wednesday 16th February. David Hamilton: Mount Vinson Ski Expedition
David has worked as a mountaineering and ski guide in the interior of Antarctica for six seasons. He has led four 'last degree¹ ski trips to the South Pole and made 12 ascents of Mt Vinson in addition to several other skiing and climbing projects. In January 2010 David visited Antarctica¹s Ellsworth Mountains with fellow Alpine Club member Patrick Bird. In the course of a self supported 14 day trip they travelled over 90km and climbed more than 8000m. They made ski ascents of three of Antarctica's highest peaks: Mt Vinson 4892m, Mt Shinn 4660m and Mt Rutford 4477m.
Wednesday 16th March. Mick Fowler
Mick will talk about his ascent last October with Paul Ramsden, of the north face of Sulamar (5380m) in the rarely visited Chinese Tien Shan. Theirs was only the third climbing party to visit this fantastic area which is ripe for exploratory mountaineering - and also has amazingly hot springs. It also has a remarkable old trade route across the range - the Xiate Trail.
Wednesday 12th October Malcolm Bass: First ascent of the west face of Vasuki Parbat
In October 2010 Malcolm Bass and Paul Figg made the first ascent of this 1600m face in Garwhal. Various things were dropped or fell, including leaders, rocks and cameras. So the talk is illustrated partially by slides and art from 2010, and partially by slides from the 2008 attempt by Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden.
Wednesday 16th November Dick Turnbull: Sailing and Climbing in Arctic Norway
A summer in Scandanavia sailing from Oban to Spitzbergen; up the stupendous northern Norwegian coastline stopping for a route or two in the fabled Lofoten islands. Across the Barents Sea to adventures in the ice around Spitzbergen – and back again.
Wednesday 14th December Guy Wilson: 'Sourdough Education' in the Alaskan Hayes Range
Although unseasonable snowfall in Alaska's Hayes Range – east of the Denali range – prevented them getting to grips with their original objectives. But at the eleventh hour Neil Warren and Guy Wilson snatched a possible first ascent of the North East Face Direct on Mt Geist (3,268m). Supported by grants from the BMC, MEF, Alpine Club and a Berghaus Adventure Challenge award, Warren and Wilson, together with third team member Chris Johnson, flew into the Hayes Glacier at the end of April.
This is a change from the previously advertised lecture by Mike Searle on the Geology of the Himalaya
NORTHERN LECTURE VENUE: 'Outside Cafe', Hathersage, Derbyshire on Wednesdays at 7.30pm
Anyone who has had an interesting trip and would be prepared to lecture is invited to contact Edward Douglas. |
SOUTH-WEST LECTURES & EVENTS
Tuesday 18th January: Martin Welch’s film - ‘Alps 4000’
A screening of the film of the first continuous traverse of all 4000m Alpine summits by mountain guides Martin Moran and Simon Jenkins in the summer of 1993. 75 peaks, 1040 kms overland without use of motorised transport and 63,000m of ascent in 52 days.
Tuesday 15th February: David Hamilton - Mt Vinson Ski Expedition
David Hamilton has worked as a mountaineering and ski guide in the interior of Antarctica for six seasons. He has led four ‘last degree’ ski trips to the South Pole and made 12 ascents of Mt Vinson in addition to several other skiing and climbing projects. In January 2010 David visited Antarctica’s Ellsworth Mountains with fellow Alpine Club member Patrick Bird. In the course of a self supported 14 day trip they travelled over 90km and climbed more than 8,000m. They made ski ascents of three of the five highest peaks in Antarctica: Mt Vinson 4,892m, Mt Shinn 4,660m and Mt Rutford 4,477m.
Tuesday 15th March: Colin Beechey - Alpine Classic Routes and Grandes Courses
Colin has had over 40 short Alpine holidays, of only two weeks duration or less, starting as a teenager in 1968 to the present time. For most of this period Colin was attracted to the great historical climbs, ridges and traverses, regardless of the height of the mountain. By the time he discovered there was a list of the 4000ers he realised he had already climbed most of them by their ‘Grandes Courses’ or classic routes, using the normal routes for descents. He completed his round of the main 4000ers plus a large number of subsidiary summits in 2000, in order to continue seeking out the great classic alpine climbs on lesser peaks. His talk will include a selection of his most memorable classic climbs including the Hirondelles Ridge (Grande Jorasses), Zmutt Ridge (Matterhorn), Viereselsgrat (Dent Blanche), North Ridge (Weisshorn), Scercsen Eisenase/Bernina Traverse, Peuterey Ridge (Mont Blanc, Aig Blanche), Corda Molla (Disgazia), Lenspitze North face/Nadelgrat.
Tuesday 18th October Hugh Alexander: Remote Alps - far and near
A personal view of a trip to remote southern Chile (to give Monte Bove a fourth ascent) and of some beautiful, remote, unspoilt mountains right in our back yard, in northern Italy.
Tuesday 15th November Dave Wynne-Jones: The AC Antarctica Expedition December 2010
A personal account of this outstandingly productive visit to the Antarctic peninsular that resulted in a number of first ascents including Mt. Matin - one of the highest remaining unclimbed peaks of the area.
SOUTH WEST VENUE: Upper Room of the Nova Scotia, Cumberland Basin, Hotwells, Bristol, BS1 6XJ
The Nova Scotia Hotel is a well-know Bristol landmark, situated at the western end of the Floating Harbour, with ample local parking and good beer. Lectures are normally on Tuesdays and start at 7.30pm. Click here for map
The SW Regional organiser is Tony Westcott. |
SPECIAL EVENTS 2011
Thurday 24th March - Best of the Kendal Film Festival at the RGS - See poster.
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Many UK meets have an evening dinner which is open to all, whether on the meet or not. A lecture often follows the dinner.
Click here to view a list of meets
LONDON BUNKROOM
The club has a small bunkroom in the clubhouse basement containing four bunks for the use of members, aspirants and associates. There are no cooking facilities although a kettle is provided and there are restaurants and cafes nearby. The bunkroom is normally open except when the office is closed for the long Christmas and summer breaks. We cannot accept bookings from members for Friday and Saturday nights if they would be occupying the bunkhouse alone as the Club cannot provide emergency response over weekends.
There is no heating in the bunkhouse at night but there are a few blankets. Users must bring a sheet sleeping bag and are advised to bring a warm sleeping bag in winter.
Booking
Bookings should be made with the Club Administrator by e-mail or phone - 0207 613 0755. If you do not get a reply, e-mail the Hon Secretary and/or Website as communications can sometimes go astray. The office is normally manned on Tuesdays and Thursdays (although not every week), and bookings need to be made in advance so that arrangements may be made to obtain keys and instructions. There is no charge for the bunkroom however an advance deposit of twenty pounds is required. Keys must be returned within five working days of use. Regular users may apply for a set to retain for their own use.
While in occupation, members are responsible for the security of the building and have an obligation to familiarise themselves with evacuation instructions and Health and Safety requirements. Users, particularly sleeping alone, must not suffer any hearing, visual, or mobility impairments that might impact on their ability to recognize an alarm signal and delay their exit from the building in an emergency.
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LECTURE ARCHIVES
LECTURES AND EVENTS 2010
LECTURES AND EVENTS 2009
LECTURES AND EVENTS 2008
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