Cogne 2010 Meet Report

Six members and two guests attended the early season alpine meet in Valnontey, near Cogne, in the last week of June and first of July. The aim was to climb some of fine Alpine peaks in this part of the Aosta valley that was popular in th 19th century but appears to have become a backwater recently.

On the first day a party of seven walked up to the Vittorio Sella hut in the afternoon. The following morning ascents were made of Grande Serra and Punta Nera in horrible wet, deep snow. A feature of the two weeks was hot weather with, at best, a poor overnight freeze. On these first climbs the snow was particularly poor and deep - no doubt very good for improving fitness but a bit of a trial at the time.

Following this warm, up one party climbed the Gran Paradiso via the Cresta Gastaldi, a little known but elegant ridge route from the Valnontey side that joins the normal route near the summit. The climb is approached from the small Pol bivouacs, a full 5 ½ hours from the valley. A descent was made of the normal route to the Vittorio Emanuelle hut to meet another party that had climbed La Tresenta. The next day the curious Ciarfaron was climbed by both its SE ridge and North face by the two parties.

The next major summit was La Givola. This was climbed by a group of four by its remote ENE ridge, the starting point being the Balzola bivouac, 6hrs and 2000m above Cogne. The ascent went smoothly and proved to be the highlight of week for those involved. By contrast the intended descent route proved unviable and had to be abandoned. An alternative was found down a snowy coloir, possibly not used since 1859 (!) and the group eventually arrived at the Gratton bivouac at 1.30am, startling the two sleeping occupants.

Other peaks included Monte Emilius, with its fine views of most the Western Alps, and the Gran San Pietro via a traverse of its SW ridge and West Flank. The area was found to have a good combination of peak, comfortable remote moutain accommodation, food and wine and can be recommended as an alternative to busier but better known alpine valleys.

Martin Gillie