MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 24/08/20
Some selected information.
As the season advances the conditions continue to evolve. Caution is still needed with snow bridges and in potentially unstable areas.
The Dômes de Miage traverse is still being done, starting from the Bérangère and returning by the Trè la Tète glacier, (a bit of ice below the east summit and some open crevasses on the glacier, as one would expect at the end of the season.)
There has been a large landslip above the Miage glacier which has cut across the path to the Durier hut from Plan Glacier. This area still looks unstable, but not confirmed. It is advised to approach the Durier hut from the Dômes de Miage. The Aiguille de Bionnassay remains in good condition.
The Gouter route up Mont Blanc is back to “normal”, with the stonefall being less intense.
The Gonella hut has been shut since 18/06, no further information.
The is some recent information concerning the Trois Monts route on the Cosmiques hut’s Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/refugedescosmiques/posts/3090977520950974
Since this Monday it is no longer possible to cross the Tacul bergschrund on the left, (looking up) . Therefore, you are advised to go to the right, but it is your call!
The bergshrunds for the rock routes in this sector have not worsened.
On 22/08 another landslip was reported on the approach to the Salle à Manger (access to the Dent du Géant and Rochefort Arete). The Marbrés and Aiguilles d'Entrèves traverses are still being done.
A few parties are still doing the Jorasses traverse. Not much has changed on the normal route, (still at the limit)
See the Chamoniarde route book for the latest information on the Nantillons glacier. (https://www.chamoniarde.com/montagne/cahier-de-courses). The Charmoz-Grepon bergschrund is still passable but the glacier approach is very exposed to stonefall
No recent information for the République/Grepon Mer de Glace bergschrund, which is very tricky since the collapse of the “tunnel”, Otherwise, no changes, it goes !
Already there is snow on the N face of the Grandes Jorasses but there are still some parties doing the Cassin, (Walker Spur). The rock routes in this sector are in good condition; no problems with the glacier approach to the Petites Jorasses.
The Charpoua hut shuts this Thursday, still some parties doing the traverse of the Drus, the glacier remains passable , but perhaps not for long. “Good if one likes the Himalayas”.
In the Albert 1er sector, it is preferable to approach Aig du Tour by the Col du Tour, (fixed ropes in place,) as the Col Supérieur is very dry. The summit slope of the Petite Fourche is ice.