Some information from the heights in this long period of good weather.
No big changes except that the mountains are drying out (again). In the high mountains, it's hard to believe that it's March. In the valley too, spring is well advanced!
As far as ski touring is concerned, there are few changes in the “moyenne montagne”. You will have to time it right for perfect spring snow (“moquette/carpet”). Not always easy with the wind and the temperatures which vary a great deal from one day to the next. You have to be a good skier with the current conditions. Couteaux (ski crampons) are your best friends!
In summary:
- Vallon de Bérard: you will need to walk as far as the buvette or even a bit further because in the morning it's bullet hard (crampons useful). Ice on the footbridge along the torrent, fixed rope normally in place.
- Loriaz / Terrasse: portage until the end of the forest, count on a good hour of portage. Col de la Terrasse in good condition.
- Crochue-Bérard traverse: couteaux or crampons are useful to climb to the col. Crossing under the Alphonse Favre: hard snow but acceptable.
- Glacier du Mort: good steps on the way up, short mixed passage (5). Descent "no worse".
- Col des Dards / Col du Belvédère (there and back): good spring conditions!
- Beugeant: don't go too early!
In the high mountains, as we said, it's dry.
Little change around the Conscrits hut (hut open, about 1h portage on the way up). Access ok by the Mauvais pas. Still some activity on the Dômes de Miage, the descent by the Armancette glacier is on hard snow on the upper part (easily avoidable sastrugi then hard snow with good grip; but be careful not to slip), it's better from the Pointe de Covagnet. It’s a 10 minute walk above the lac d’Armancette then about 45 minutes to get back to the parking. Some people on Mont Tondu in fairly good conditions. Dry north faces as elsewhere.
Very technical skiing reported in the Vallée Blanche (hard snow, bumps, crevasses that are opening up). You can still ski to Montenvers. There are still a few skiers around the Brèche Puiseux, but the Vallée Blanche is in "reinforced concrete" mode in the morning to get there, which could discourage you.
Some teams on the Whymper couloir on the Aiguille Verte which is quite dry. Access to the Talèfre basin is already complicated, judge for yourself from the photo on the website.
It's a bit better for the classics of the Argentière basin (refuge closed, no opening date planned at this stage) and Le Tour (refuge open).
Cols d'Argentière and Tour Noir OK. Couloir en Y OK, glacier du Milieu technical (see cahier de course on the Chamoniarde website). The left bank of the Argentière glacier is complicated (several bits narrow with hard snow).
Col du Chardonnet: access to the col on the S side very dry (see photo, beware of rock fall). Fixed rope in place on the N side with several knots (you will have to undo your abseil device and redo it the other side). It is not long enough to pass the rimaye which is wide open. Plan to do a second abseil: minimum 40m rope, no belay in place, possibility of doing a snow belay or using the end of the fixed rope (krab in place) if it's quiet.
Fenêtre du Tour and Saleina, col du Tour and col sup du Tour OK. Aiguille du Tour: nothing to report
Passon: still enough snow to reach the Vormaine piste.
In the gullies, things are drying out but they are still there. Latest news, teams on Mini Blast, Vent du Dragon (the belays to descend from the Aiguille du Midi walkway don't seem to have been destroyed by the rock fall), goulotte Chéré, Pellissier, Modica-Noury (last pitch dry and more difficult than usual), Gabarrou-Albinoni, Lafaille (last pitch dry), N face of Tour Ronde (quite short ice section: 15-20m, ice in the upper section).
An old track in the Mallory which seems possible although quite dry (several mixed passages, ice exit).
Report translated from La Chamoniarde.