News

Report 21st November 2017

There is still not much snow in the mountains for the time of year, though things should improve from this weekend onwards. 

 

There has been very little activity reported from the higher mountains and the information received indicates a great variation in conditions from one sector to another. There have been strong winds at altitude, stripping the snow in some areas and dumping it in others

 

On north facing slopes above 2000m one risk floundering in deep snow even with snow shoes, while on the south faces the snow is variable, bare in some places and knee deep elsewhere.  Some paths, even at lower altitudes, maybe iced over in places.  Whatever the activity, the current, difficult conditions require the correct equipment.

 

It is still too early to ski tour in the Chamonix valley, have patience.

 

Report 12th November 2017

A chain of weather fronts is gradually building up snow levels at altitude.
There are 30cms of snow at 2000m and more above this.  

This snow was accompanied by strong N to NE winds, causing drifting and windslab above 2000m.  The avalanche risk is 3/5.  At mid mountain the snow cover in insufficient for ski touring but snow shoes could be useful above 2000/2200m.

Concerning the lifts, only the Montenvers train is running.  Check the timetable first.

 

Winter is slowly coming; take care, be patient.  

 

Alpine Club 2017 Photo Competition Results

Mountain Landscape:

 
Commended:  
Vanishing Castle Andrey Golovachev
Kitchen Views Ben Thorne
Highly Commended:  
Go with the Floe Andrey Golovachev
Third:  
Biancograt Tony Westcott
Second:  
Atmosphere on the Aretes de Rochefort Tom Hare
First:  
Matterhorn from Hirli Ben Tibbetts
   

Mountain Action:

 
Commended:  
On Dables Arete of Tacul Ben Tibbetts
Scotland comes to the Ecrins Tom Hare
Highly Commended:  
On Peuterey Ben Tibbetts
Third:  
Walking on the glass Andrey Golovachev
Second:  
On Kuffner, Mont Blanc Ben Tibbetts
First:  
On Innominata Ridge, Mont Blanc Ben Tibbetts


 

 

 

 

 

2017 Sumur Lungpa Expedition

After a multi-day trek up the steep Sumur Lungpa to establish a base camp by the Sumur Lakes at 5,160m, Derek, Drew, Rafal and Howard made the first ascent of Point 6068 via its technically easy SW slopes (Alpine F) on 18th September following an arduous 5h of post-holing from a high camp at 5,743m. Deceptively, this top turned out to be the high point of three convergent ridges rather than a true peak per se and was thus called Deception Point. We were unable to get a Ladakhi translation. Only roped glacier travel was required.

Lt Col Simon Hall MBE RM

News has reached us of the untimely death of Club Member Lt Col Simon Hall MBE RM.

Members are invited to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.

Norman Hardie

It is with great sadness that we report the death in New Zealand on 30th October of Honorary Member Norman Hardie, a member of the team to first ascend Kangchenjunga in 1955 and past President of the New Zealand Alpine Club.

Members are invited to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website

Fred Beckey

The Alpine Club is deeply saddened by the news that AC Honorary Member Fred Beckey has died at the age of 94. A climber who had an unparalleled number of first ascents to his name, right across the US.

''But in the end, its really the selection of climbs that tell us the most about the world's most accomplished climber. Beckey's favorite climbs are defined by purity of line, position, and quality of movement - not difficulty. Fred's new book makes me really appreciate his innate ability to choose nature's most beautiful lines'' Mark Kroese writing in both the AAJ 2012 and the AJ 2013.

Members are invited to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.

Iain McMorrin

We are saddened to receive news of the death of our member, Iain McMorrin.

Members would be welcome to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.

 

Report 26 October 2017

 Since the bad weather last weekend, (wind at altitude with snow almost down to the valley,) the Office de Haute Montagne has not received any information about recent conditions.   The quantity of fresh snow and the extent of drifting during the stormy weather remains largely unknown.  On the 26th October there were again strong N/NW winds. 

The rocks are still plastered with snow, except for those in the Aiguilles Rouge exposed to the sun.  (Only the Flégère lift is running on this side of the valley at the moment.)

The warm weather these last two days has been ideal for climbing on the valley crags   N.B.there has been a rockfall at the Spa sector at the Fayet : an area of rock has come away near a bolt protected crack used for dry tooling.

Concerning the hiking trails, the snow has melted away up to about 2000m but above this there is still some left, especially on the north facing slopes, (hard snow).  Be aware, as part of the preparation for the winter season, at mid altitudes many of the signposts are being removed, as well as some of the footbridges. 

2017 UIAA Mountain Protection Award

“It’s all bullshit on Everest these days,” the late Sir Edmund Hillary once said. Wrong animal. Every year 12,000 kg of solid human waste is dumped at Gorak Shep at the head of Nepal’s Khumbu valley, the produce of thousands of mountaineers, trekkers and their entourages of sherpas, porters etc who congregate at Everest Base Camp in the climbing seasons. Unsurprisingly there is a pollution hazard for communities downstream.

Report 17th October 2017

The weather is due to deteriorate for the weekend and will restrict activity at altitude.  Nonetheless, here is the latest reported information:

 

The 3 Monts route was done at the end of last week, with some steep sections and apparently bare ice in places.  The normal (Gouter) route up Mont Blanc was also being climbed

 

Near the Torino hut (still open), the conditions remain generally good for the Dent du Geant, the Rochefort Ridge, (good track and firm snow,) the Entrèves and the Marbrées.
Activity also on the Tour Ronde normal route, (stonefall reported,) and the N face, (no further info.)
Some parties climbed the Küffner Ridge, using the direct start as there is a rockfall zone near the Col de la Fourche.  The Lafaille and Valéria gullies would appear to be climbable, but still thin and the bergshrunds could be problematical.

 

Near the Aiguille du Midi, the S face and the Cosmiques Spur are in condition.  Some activity on the Midi-Plan, with most parties turning back before the abseils at the Rognon, in order not to miss the last lift back down. Some parties on Fil à Plomb but the other mixed routes on the N face of the Midi are not in good condition.

 

A party on the Desmaison route, Grandes Jorasses; the route being very difficult due to alternating dry (rock)/ice and inconsistent snow.  A party topped out on the Shroud.  The descent was awkward but passable.  The Colton-McIntyre looks to have very little ice.  

 

Despite the sections of bare ice and crevasses, the Dômes de Miage ridge was traversed last weekend.  The Tré la Tête glacier is heavily crevassed.

 

No particular problems for hikers, other than some paths being closed “for work”.

Report 12 October 2017

Latest update for this weekend:

The recent good weather has favoured activity in the high mountains but, as reported frequently, the conditions are very dry for the season.  Most of the gullies and mixed routes are not yet in condition; more snow is needed!

 

The Torino is the only high altitude hut still open.  At mid altitudes, only the

Plan de l'Aiguille and the Loriaz huts are open.

 

Tour Glacier sector: the normal routes on Tête Blanche, Petite Fourche and the Aiguille du Tour are being done.  (N.B. the Col Supérieur du Tour is still awkward to cross.) No information about the Chardonnet.

 

Argentière sector: Good conditions reported for the Bettembourg-Thivierge gully, no information for the other routes in this sector.  

 

Cosmiques/Torino sector: Aiguilles Marbrées and Entrèves and the Dent du Géant remain popular.  Parties turned back on the Rochefort Ridge, (too much snow.)  The Kuffner Ridge is being done again, in OK conditions (see cahier de course).
Rock routes are being climbed on the Aiguille du Midi S face, Pointes Lachenal and the Tacul satelittes.
The Fil à Plomb was done recently.  It is necessary to bypass the bergshrund using the rocks to the left; afterwards the conditions are more or less OK.
No information about the 3 Monts traverse, but the normal route on the Tacul is being done regularly.

 

The Gouter route on Mont Blanc remains popular. It is still forbidden to walk along by the Tramway du Mont Blanc rail track, only the Rognes or the Chalets de l'Are paths are allowed.  

 

The Tricot ridge and the traverse of the Bionnassay are also being done, conditions are more technical than usual, with the Bionnassay ridge being very thin. There are some ice sections on the north side and powder snow on the Italian side.  

 

A party turned back on the Dômes de Miage traverse due to awkward conditions, (the ridge very narrow, crevasses etc.) 

 

Many hikers are enjoying the valley paths during these beautiful autumnal days.  Do not forget to check for closed paths ( chemins fermés pour travaux ) before setting out. Some of the signposts are being removed prior to the winter; take a map!

 

The Curalla Via Ferrata at Plateau d'Assy will close on 13th November and the cables on the Dérochoir will be removed on the same date.  The Tricot footbridge will be taken down for the winter between 16 and 20th October.

 

UK Alpine Introductory Meet

Friday 8th – Sunday 10th June 2018

George Starkey Hut, Patterdale, NE Lakes

Main Road (A592), Patterdale Village, Cumbria.  Nearest Postcode: CA11 0NN

Grid Ref – NY 396162 (OS Outdoor Leisure Map No 5)

Meet Details:

The AC are planning a training focused meet based in Patterdale (Lake District). The focus will be on transferring skills to Aspirant Members who wish to improve their alpine skills and to Full Members in need of a refresher after a break from alpine climbing.

Informal training and guidance will be provided by Sandy Allen.

Topics will range from what to put into your rucksack to some basic Alpine mountaineering skills.

Report 6th October 2017

All the high mountain huts are now closed, with the exceptions of the Cosmiques, (closes 7/10) and the Torino, (closes 2/11).  All the lifts are also closed except for the Aig du Midi and Skyway which will remain open until the beginning of November.

At lower altitudes, only the Loriaz and Plan de l’Aiguille are still open.

 

Despite the mixed weather in September and the cool, windy weather at the start of October, the mixed routes and the gullies are still not in condition.  

 

Some routes, such as the Contamine-Grisolle or the Chéré on the Triangle du Tacul, remain feasible.
The normal route on the Tacul and the Midi Plan traverse, (as far as the Rognon,) have been done recently in OK conditions.

The 3 Monts traverse has not been done now for a fortnight.  Following the recent passages of bad weather, the rock routes often have ice in the cracks and snow on the ledges.

 

A large part of the Tournier Spur on the Aiguille du Midi N face has collapsed leaving the area unstable.

 

No recent news from the Torino sector, though the traverses of the Marbrées and Entrèves remain feasible. Take care on the glaciers, as the snow bridges are still weak.

In the Mer de Glace sector, (Montenvers train closed,) some of the in-situ material at the Egralets and the Couvercle-Leschaux traverse has been dismantled for the winter. The way is still possible but demands good technical ability. A party has climbed the Shroud, though in delicate conditions. The Colton McIntyre would appear to be out of condition for the moment.

 

The Aiguille de Bionnassay was climbed at the beginning of October, there and back from the Durier, in generally good conditions

 

In the Albert 1er sector, the routes on the Chardonnet have not come into condition yet.  In general, it has been far too dry this year and patience is needed before the routes will be feasible again.   

 

The normal route up Mont Blanc by the Goûter remains popular, (huts and lifts closed,) despite unfavourable conditions for the Aiguille de Gouter. One needs to be well experienced and have the right material. 

 

In the mid mountain, Autumn is the time for a lot of maintenance work and many of the paths are closed.  Check the arrêtés en cours  site before venturing out.

 

Autumn is also a time when it is difficult to gather good information, (huts and lifts closed, not much activity etc,) so the Chamoniarde relies on your feedback to create the updates.  Please do not hesitate to write up your outings in the cahier de courses  or give them a phone call. Whether the conditions were good or bad, the information is always useful and most welcome. 

 

Report 24 September 2017

The rise in temperatures has melted a lot of the recent snow at mid-altitudes.   However, some of the shaded paths may still be awkward from about 2300m upwards.
During this Autumn period, many of the paths are closed for repair.  For example, the path linking Col des Montets and Lac Blanc will be closed from 25 to 29/09 as far as the Tête aux Vents cairn.
Consult the list at Chamoniarde site.

 

The Tour du Mont Blanc is still feasible but you need to be self-sufficient, as many of the huts are closed.

 

Most of the high mountain huts are now closed; exceptions are the Goûter, Cosmiques and Torino huts.


The recent snow has temporarily improved conditions for some of the Tacul Triangle routes, but overall the conditions are dry.  Summer 2017 was the driest ever recorded and Autumn, with its snowfalls, has only just started, patience is required!

The Chéré, Allemands, Contamine-Grisolle, Contamine-Mazeaud and Contamine-Negri are being climbed in variable conditions.  

The normal route on the Tacul is tracked but the not the traverse of the 3 Monts. The Mont Maudit looks to be avalanche prone.
The Pointes Lachenal traverse is tracked but there is already some bare ice.  The Laurence and Cosmiques ridges are also being done.
The S faces are being climbed, despite some snow still on the ledges.

 

Near the Torino the conditions are Ok for the Aiguilles d'Entrèves and Marbrées (best done N-S), traverses. Good conditions for the Dent du Géant. The Rochefort ridge was done on 22/09.
Careful on the glacier (weak snow bridges.)

 

All the lifts are shut, except for the Aiguille du Midi, Montenvers train and the Skyway (Italy).

 

Good conditions reported for the Grand Paradis via Chabod hut.

 

We are entering a period where less information is available. La Chamoniarde is counting on you to report your experiences to them, to help with their next report.

 

Young Alpinist Event, Peak District

The Alpine Club is working with the BMC to look at ways of helping young, talented British climbers to improve their skills and knowledge about expedition climbing ...

Venue - Bob Downes Hut (Climbers Club), Froggatt, Peak District, S32 3ZJ http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/venues/ro-bob-downes-hut-froggatt/

Cost - £10 to cover travel costs of speakers and evening meal (veggie and meat spag bol?) for Saturday evening - any surplus to go into club funds to assist with future meetings 
10 bed places at the hut for the Friday (29th) and Saturday (30th) nights have been reserved for accommodation. The cost of these are £12 per person per night and these are on a first reply first served basis.
If you are an experienced, keen British alpinist under 35 years old and wish to attend then book a place on the event by emailing 
Tim Elson at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. and cc Ian Parnell at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
This is not an introductory programme for alpine climbing, but targeted at those who already have significant experience in Scottish winter climbing,  summer and winter alpinism and perhaps expeditions. You don't need to be jogging up North Faces or climbing Scottish grade VIII to come along, just to be actively climbing in the mountains and be excited about expedition alpine climbing. If this sounds like you then please come along!

Report 19th September 2017

Between seasons !

 

The Planpraz/Brévent – Flégère/Index –Tour/col de Balme – Valllorcine – Lognan/ Grands Montets – Prarion lifts are closed.  The following are still open :  Montenvers train–Aiguille du Midi cable car –Bellevue cable car (until 24th September) –  Monte Bianco Skyway, (Italy). 

 

Many of the huts are now closed; more information on the Chamoniarde site.

 

There is snow down to 1800m, and at 2000m there is 10 to 20cms in some places.  The Loriaz and Moëde Anterne huts have 15cm of snow, 10/15 cm at the Albert 1er, 20 cm at the Leschaux , 30 cm at the Goûter, Torino and Conscrits  and 50 cm of new snow at the Cosmiques. 

 

It is cold for the time of year. At mid-altitudes in the morning the ground is frozen, (use mountain boots and hiking poles), and snow covered in some areas. This creates difficulties on some paths.  At higher altitudes, the temperatures are low (-10° at 3300/3500m), with almost winter conditions.  There were strong winds during some of the snow falls, creating both snow drifts and patches of bare ice.  Take care on the glaciers, the snow and wind have helped form snow bridges which can be extremely fragile. The rocks are plastered with snow but the gullies are not yet in condition!

 

 There has not been a lot of activity in the high mountain recently. 

Aiguille du Midi sector : some parties on the Chéré couloir, (abseil descent, be careful of other parties). The Triangle du Tacul looks snow covered but appearances can be deceiving.  Parties turned back on the Pointes Lachenal traverse, (windslab.) 

Torino sector, the Marbrées and Entrèves traverses were done in winter conditions. Parties turned back on the Rocherfort Ridge, (bare ice.)

Albert 1er sector : the Petite Fourche has been done.

Chamonix Aiguilles sector : everything is plastered.

Conscrits sector: no activity for the moment.