The Alpine Journal

The latest and earlier editions of the Alpine Journal can be purchased from Cordee.

Notes for Contributors  are near the bottom of this page.

Alpine Journal 1998 Volume 103 No 347

1997 was indeed a year of triumph and tragedy. A magnificent new route was climbed on the North Face of Changabang by Andy Cave and Brendan Murphy, a success which turned bitter when Murphy lost his life in an avalanche on the descent.

One of the big issues of 1997 was the rigging of rock climbs and mountain routes with bolts, stanchions, abseil anchor rings and fixed ropes, culminating in the threat that even the Zmutt ridge of the Matterhorn may be subjected to this treatment.

Ken Wilson makes a forceful plea for traditional climbing values, while Doug Scott offers some trenchant comments on risk, responsibility and the guided climber.

The 1998 Alpine Journal gives a complete overview of the past year, covering expeditions, rock climbing, history, memoirs, book reviews and obituaries. Writers include Andy Cave, Alan Hinkes, Paul Moores, Jonathan Pratt, Paul Pritchard, Waldemar Sorota, and many other leading mountaineers.

With over 50 pages of black and white and colour photographs.

Contents

INDIAN HIMALAYA
Changabang: A World Apart               Andy Cave               3
Mountain of Dreams, Mountain of Sorrows Julie-Ann Clyma         12
The First Ascent of the Kullu Eiger     Jim Lowther             18
Qomolungma                              P M Das                 26
In Pursuit of Gya                       Arun Samant             36
The British Sikkim Expedition 1996      Julian Freeman-Attwood  45
in Famous Footsteps                     Harish Kapadia          53
The Survey of India and the Pundits     Michael Ward            59
EXPEDITIONS
Challenge 8000: a Progress Report       Alan Hinkes             83
Annapurna North-West Ridge              Waldemar Soroka         89
Lhotse 96                               Jonathan Pratt          93
Cerro Torte                             Paul Moores             97
On the Central Tower of Paine           Noel Craine             102
Ak-Su: The Wall of Dykes                Paul Pritchard          109
Beatrice                                Louise Thomas           117
The Gimmigela Adventure                 Pat Parsons             126
SKI MOUNTAINEERING
Skiing the Clouds in the Karakoram      Vadim Vasiljev          135
'Ski Mountaineering/s Mountaineering'   J G R Harding           140
ABOVE AND BELOW THE SNOW-LINE
A Plant Addict in the Eastern Himalaya  Ernst Sondheimer        149
Nepal's Farthest West                   Kev Reynolds            157
The Mystery of Vinowara                 Lindsay Griffin         163
Once in a Blue Moon                     Jim Curran              169
THE BIG ISSUES
A Future for Traditional Values?        Ken Wilson              175
Fame and Fortune                        Doug Scott              189
The Great Himalayan Circus              David Hamilton          197
Dead Man Waving                         Joe Simpson             201
LOOKING BACK
Norway 1932                             Ashley Greenwood        213
Masherbrum in 1938                      Robin Hodgkin           218
The Prophet of Mulbek Gompa             John Jackson            225
Adventures in Zanskar and Lahul         Sydney Nowill           228
One Hundred Years Ago                   C A Russell             235
AREA NOTES      Edited by Josd Luis Bermudez                    243
Contributions from:
Chris Cheeseman, Derek Fordham, Lindsay Cmffin, David Hamilton, 
Tony Howard, Harish Kapadia, Paul Knott, Bill O'Connor, Simon Richardson.
Mount Everest Foundation:
Expedition Reports 1997 Summarised by Bill Ruthven              291
Book Reviews            Compiled by Geofpey Templeman           301
In Memoriam             Compiled by Geoffrey Templeman          332
Alpine Club Notes                                               360
Contributors                                                    376
Index                                                           382
Notes for Contributors                                          389
        SKETCH MAPS AND TOPOS
        1       Changabang North Face   15
                ( Topo diagram by Roger Payne and Julie-Ann Clyma
                redrawn by Gary Hale3,)
        2       Parbati Valley and the Kullu Eiger (Sketch map by Scott Muir)   19
        3       The approach to the Kullu Eiger (Sketch map by Scott Muir)      22
        4       The North Face of the Kullu Eiger and 'The Mask'        24
                ( Topo diagram by Scott Muir redrawn by Gary Haley)
        5       Gya, 6794m, and the Lingti Valley, Himachai Pradesh     38
                (Sketch map by Arun Samant redrawn by Ted Hatch)
        6       Our route to the East Col on Gya, 6794m, in April i996  41
                (From a photo by Arun Samant redrawn by Gary Haley)
        7       The British Sikkim Expedition 1996      51
                (Sketch map by Julian Freeman-Attwood redrawn by Ted Hatch)
        8       The Garhwal Traverse Expedition 1997    55
                (Sketch map by Harish Kapadia)
        9       The Journeys of the Pundits: Nain Singh 62
                (Map compiled by Michael Ward and Ted Hatch)
        10      The Journeys of the Pundits: Kishen Singh       68
                (Map compiled by Michael Ward and Ted Hatch)
        11      The East Face of Cerro Torre and Maestri's 197i bolted route    99
                ( Topo diagram by Paul Moores redrawn by Gary Haley)
        12      The Central Tower of Paine: the unfinished 1997 British route   105
                ( Topo by Noel Craine redrawn by Gary Haley)
        13      Pamir Alai and Ak-Su Valley     l l5
                (Sketch map by Paul Pritchard redrawn by Gary Ha&y)
        14      The Great Game on The Wall of Dykes, Ak-Su Valley       115
                (Drawing by Gary Ha!eyjqom a photo by Paul Pritchard)
        15      Beatrice: Hateja and The Excellent Adventure    124
                ( Topo diagrams by Louise Thomas and Mike 'Twid~ Turner
                redrawn by Gary Hale3,)
        16      Nepal and Gimmigela, 7350m.     128
        17      Biafo-Hispar Glacier    I36
                (Sketch map by Vadim Vasiljev redrawn by Gary Haley)
        18      Botanising in Bhutan    ~50
                (Sketch map by Ted Hatch)
        19      South-Eastern Tibet- Namche Barwa area  is4
                (Sketch map by Ted Hatch)
        20      West Nepal      159
                (Sketch map by Kev Reynolds)
        21      Central Cordillera Real 165
                (Sketch map by Lindsay Griffin)
        22      The Hurrungane Range    214
                (Sketch mai) by Ted Hatch)

Alpine Journal 1997 Volume 102 No 346

'The Antarctic continent provided me with everything that I value most solitude, isolation, commitment, technical difficulty and a magnificent environment ...'

Thus Erhard Loretan describes his two magnificent Antarctic solo climbs in a region where challenging climbing, virgin summits and true adventure can still be found.

In the Himalaya, 1996 was a year of tragedy- and some big issues could no longer be ignored. Some of these are tackled, from varying viewpoints, in this 102nd volume.

The 1997 Alpine Journal gives a complete overview of the past year, covering expeditions, rock climbing, history, memoirs and book reviews. Writers include Kurt Diemberger, Sergei Efimov, Erhard Loretan, Stephen Venables, and many other leading mountaineers.

With over 50 pages of black and white and colour photographs.

Contents

POLAR REGIONS
Travels in Another World		Erhard Loretan		3
Antarctica: Wilderness or Wasteland?	Peter D Clarkson	8
On the North-West Wall of Ulvetanna	Ivar Erik Tollefsen	13
Land of Fire				Stephen Venables	22
Arctic Voices				Derek Fordham		32
Snowy Summits in East Greenland		Mike Fletcher 
& Anne-Marie NuttalI	39
The Great Cross Pillar			Jerry Gore		47
The Great and Secret Show		Warren Hollinger	52
Winterdance				Gary Paulsen		59
EXPEDITIONS
The Remotest Eight-thousander		Jonathan Wakefield	71
with a Postscript		J H Emlyn Jones		76
Ama Dablam: North-West Face	T	oma£Humar		80
Success and Tragedy on Haramosh II	Dave Wilkinson		85
Baruntse West Face			Sergei mfimov		93
Latok I					Brendan Murphy		99
The Challenge of the Ogre		Matthew Dickinson	103
Climbing and Trekking in SE Ladakh	Harish Kapadia		107
Foolishly Following A F Mummery		Roy Ruddle		111
A Ski Traverse of the Caucasus		John Kentish		117
ABOVE AND BELOW THE SNOW-LINE
Filming in High Places			Kurt Diemberger		125
Emergency on Everest			Audrey Salkeld		133
Reunion in the Rolwaling		Dennis Davis		137
The Swedish Mountains			Ulf Carlsson		144
The Atlas End to End			Hamish M Brown		148
Cordillera de Cocapata, Bolivia		Evelio Echevarria	154
THE BIG ISSUES
The Effects of Change
on Mountaineering Ethics         	Trevor Braham           163
The Future of Mountaineering 		lan McNaught-Davis      169
Commercial Expeditions 			Jon Tinker              173
Bolting in the Alpine Environment 	Paolo Vitah'            181
The Great Alpine Theme Park 		Pat Littlejohn          184
LOOKING BACK
Beyond Gulmarg                          John Hunt             	191
An Introduction to 
'Midnight and Dawn ...' 		John Blacker          	195
'Midnight and Dawn on the Summit
of the Great Vignemale'           Baron Bertrand 
de Lassus 		197
HISTORY AND GEOGRAPHY
Edward Whymper's Lecture Slides         Peter Berg             	209
Attilio Tissi, 1900-1959 		Elinor Bevan           	213
Exploration of the Bhutan Himalaya 	Michael Ward           	219
One Hundred Years Ago			C A Russell            	230
AREA NOTES                Edited by 	Jose Luis Bermudez      238
Contributions from:
Jose Luis Bermudez, Chris Cheeseman, Lindsay Griffin, David Hamilton,
Tony Howard, Harish Kapadia, Paul Knott, Bill O'Connor, 
Simon Richardson, Derek Rubio.
Mount Everest Foundation:
Expedition Reports 1994            
Summarised by Bill Ruthven                 		289
Book Reviews Compiled by 		Geoffrey Templeman      298
In Memoriam Compiled by 		Geoffrey Templeman      333
Alpine Club Notes                          			364
Contributors                               			375
Index                                      			381
Notes for Contributors                     			388

Alpine Journal 1996 Volume 101 No 345

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Alpine Journal 1995 Volume 100 No 344

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Alpine Journal 1994 Volume 99 No 343

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Alpine Journal 1993 Volume 98 No 342

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Alpine Journal 1992

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Alpine Journal 1991

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Alpine Journal 1990

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Alpine Journal 1989

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Alpine Journal 1988

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Alpine Journal 1987

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Notes for contributors

Articles Contributions in English are invited. They should be sent to the Hon Editor, Steve Goodwin, 1 Ivy Cottages, Edenhall, Penrith CA11 8SN (e-mail sg@stephengoodwin.demon.co.uk) or to the Production Editor, Johanna Merz, 14 Whitefield Close, Putney, London SW15 3SS. Articles should be in the form of typed copy or on disk with accompanying hard copy. Their length should not exceed 3,000 words without prior approval of the Editor and may be edited or shortened at his discretion. Authors are asked to keep a copy. It is regretted that the Alpine Journal is unable to offer a fee for articles published, but authors receive a complimentary copy of the issue of the Alpine Journal in which their article appears.

Articles and book reviews should not have been published in substantially the same form by any other publication.

Maps These should be well researched, accurate, and finished ready for printing. They should show the most important place-names mentioned in the text. It is the authors' responsibility to get their maps redrawn if necessary. This can be arranged through the Production Editor if required.

Photographs Only top quality photographs will be accepted. Prints (any size) should be black and white, with glossy finish if possible. They should be numbered (in pencil) on the back and accompanied by captions on a separate sheet (see below). Colour transparencies, in 35mm format or larger, should be originls (not copies)

Captions These should be listed on a separate sheet and should give title, author and approximate date when the photograph was taken.

Copyright it is the author's responsibility to obtain copyright clearance for both text and photographs, to pay any fees involved and to ensure that acknowledgements are in the form required by the copyright owner.

Summaries A brief summary should be included with all 'expedition' articles.

Biographies Authors are asked to provide a short biography, in not more than 60 words, listing the most noteworthy items in their climbing career and anything else they wish to mention.

Deadline: copy and photographs should reach the Editor by 1 January of the year of publication.

The latest and earlier editions of the Alpine Journal can be purchased from Cordee.

Back Issues Journal Sale

In an effort to reduce stocks, surplus volumes of pre-2000 issues of the Alpine Journal are offered to members at the specially discounted rate of £1  for soft back and £2  for hard back volumes. This is a great chance to acquire back numbers. Add postage at parcel rates: £2.50 for one, £5 for two, but up to 10kg for £10. Better still why not collect when you next come to the Club and save postage? Cheques should be made payable to the Alpine Club and sent direct to the Administrator at The Alpine Club, 55 Charlotte Road, London, EC2A 3QF. Journals will be dispatched/reserved as soon as possible on a first-come, first-served basis.

The following volumes are currently available, but a significant number have already been sold and some years there are only a few copies left. (updated February 2006)

ALPINE CLUB, 55/56 Charlotte Road, London EC2A 3QF
Telephone: (+44) (0)20 7613 0755       Email: admin@alpine-club.org.uk