The Alpine Club, the world’s first mountaineering club, was founded in 1857.  For over 150 years, members have been at the leading edge of worldwide mountaineering development and exploration. 

With membership, experienced and aspiring alpinists benefit from a varied meets programme, regional lectures with notable guest speakers, reduced rates at many alpine huts, opportunity to apply for grants to support expeditions, significant discounts at many UK retailers, extensive networking contacts, access to the AC Library and maps - and more! 

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News

Montane Alpine Climbing Club Fund

Montane Alpine Climbing Club Fund ( MACCF) grants are now available for both official Alpine Club expeditions and independent private expeditions involving Alpine Club members.

Grants are usually given to expeditions attempting new routes or first ascents in high and / or hard to reach mountain ranges e.g. the Himalaya and Karakoram ranges. Grants will now not typically be given for the more well-travelled mountain areas in Central Alaska, Patagonia, or Greenland (unless the applicants are young members who are new to expeditionary climbing).  First ski ascents or descents are not usually supported. A new feature of the grants is that they may now be awarded to teams attempting early repeats of technical routes, especially on 7000m and 8000m mountains, and/or if they aim to improve on the style of earlier ascents. Preference is given to expeditions by students and younger members, and to those who have not previously received a grant.

Details of funding and the application process can be found HERE.

AC Meet - The Tatra Mountains 2018

The Tatra Mountains are situated on the border between Poland and Slovakia. During winter, they offer excellent alpine climbing – snow, ice and mixed routes, followed by sharp ridges that take you to spiky summits. Descents are often tricky. There is no problem with acclimatisation as the altitude is 2000 – 2600m.

Peter Mallalieu

It is with great sadness that we report the death on 6th March of Peter Mallalieu, Honorary Keeper Emeritus of the Club’s Paintings.  

Peter joined the Club in 1992 and in 1996 became Honorary Keeper of the Club’s Paintings. In 2007 he published ‘The Artists of the Alpine Club’, the first ever biographical study of Alpine Club artists

Peter Mallalieu's funeral was held at Banbury Crematorium on Friday 17 March at 2.00 pm.

Members would be welcome to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website

UK Alpine Introductory Meet

2nd – 4th June 2017

George Starkey Hut, Patterdale, NE Lakes

Main Road (A592), Patterdale Village, Cumbria.  Nearest Postcode: CA11 0NN

Grid Ref – NY 396162 (OS Outdoor Leisure Map No 5)

Meet Details:

The AC are planning a training focused meet based in Patterdale (Lake District).  The focus will be on transferring skills to Aspirant Members and those who wish to improve their Alpine skills.

Informal training and guidance will be provided from more experienced members within the club (IFMGA guides and qualified instructors).

Topics will range from what to put into your rucksack to some basic Alpine mountaineering skills.

The Journeyman Alpine Club Meet 2017

Synopsis

The Alpine Club Journeyman Meet is aimed at Aspirant Members who have already climbed at least 7 to 10 PD routes in the Alps, and may have already participated in the Saas Fe Aspirant Meet in previous years.

The participants’ will be aiming to complete the 20 PD routes needed to become Full Members of the Alpine Club, and looking for sufficient climbing partners to make this happen

Location

The Journeyman will be held in Argentiere just outside of Chamonix with access to routes such as the Cosmiques Arete, Aiguille Rochefort and of course Mont Blanc. The meet will be held over two weeks in a self catering chalet with shared rooms in the village. A nearby campground offers an alternative to the chalet.

Programme

After a mandatory induction day with a local mountain guide covering safety and route finding, the participants will be encouraged to explore the mountains surrounding Chamonix with their climbing partners. During the first evening a member of the Chamonix Gendarmerie will also provide an overview of specific dangers of the region. The meet also aims to host a special guest to share in their experiences in expedition planning and route choice.

Dates

The meet will be held from 2nd September to 16th September after the main summer season to take advantage of quieter huts and mountains. It also gives members of the Saas Fe Aspirant Meet the opportunity to extend their stay in the Alps by one week.

The Golden and Silver Ages of Mountaineering 1855-1900

The AC Library’s Exhibition: 'The Golden and Silver Ages of Mountaineering 1855-1900' has opened at the Frenchay Village Museum.

The exhibition includes: photographs, first edition books, archives and artefacts highlighting the climbing partnerships between AC members and AC members' expeditions from the 1870s as far afield as the Caucasus and the Karakoram Himalayas and viewing is highly recommended.

  

(l-r) Hywel Lloyd, Barbara Grigor-Taylor and Tony Westcott setting up the exhibition at the Frenchay Village Museum. 

At: Frenchay Village Museum, 1 Begbrook Park, Winterbourne, Bristol BS16 1SZ

From: 7 January to 29 March 2017

Opening hours:  Saturday & Sunday, 2pm-5pm, and Wednesday, 1pm-4pm. 

Lecture:  9th March - A lecture on the exhibition, by ACL Chairman, Hywel Lloyd, at a venue near the museum DETAILS HERE

 

AC Expedition to the Bolivian Apolobamba 2017

Unfortunately as an insufficient number of people have applied for this expedition to make the trip viable we have reluctantly cancelled it.

3 June – 2 July

After a very successful expedition to Cordillera Real in 2015 the AC is planning to return to Bolivia in 2017, this time to the less well-known Apolobamba range. A four week expedition is proposed from Saturday 3 June to Sunday 2 July 2017 with a possible option for those short of time to return one week early. The plan is to split the expedition into two parts after a short period of acclimatisation near Lake Titicaca. The first and major part will be to visit the range north of Peluchuco, with options to climb a variety of peaks including Chaupi Orco (6,044m), the highest in the range. In the final week we shall travel south of Peluchuco, with Cololo (5,915m) as a primary objective. Because of the remoteness of this area we shall have limited support, although four porters will be available to help carry to the first base camp and a camp guard with knowledge of the area will remain at both base camps. There are no reliable maps or guides to the Apolobamba so what we actually do will be highly dependent on the prevailing conditions. The number of participants will be limited to 12, with the cost estimated to be ca £1,100 for all in-country expenses (accommodation, transport and assistance), plus flights to and from La Paz (ca £700). In addition, we will need to source all mountain food from the UK and pay for meals for the six nights while hostel/hotel based. If you are interested please contact Derek Buckle (This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.) as soon as possible.

Alan Lyall

We are sadden to learn of the death of Alan Lyall who died on Monday, 9th January,  He had been a member for 25 years, joining as a full member in 1991. Alan is known for his book The First Descent of the Matterhorn: A Bibliographical Guide to the 1865 Accident and its Aftermath.

 

Harry Sales

It is with sadness that we report of the death of Harry Sales

Harry’s funeral is on Wednesday 25th January 2017.  In the morning there will be a private cremation and after that, everyone is welcome to attend a Service in Celebration of Harry’s Life, at 2.30 in Paul Church, near Penzance. This will be  followed by Afternoon Tea in the Church Hall.   Afternoon tea with friends was one of Harry’s favourite things!

John Atherton has been asked to handle any enquiries from Club friends, his phone number is 01736 731537 and email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..

 

Photos by John Atherton

The one that shows Harry climbing was taken in April 2000, when I took Harry aged 82, on his last climb - Allison's Rib at Bosigran. 

Alpine Aspirants Meet 26 Aug - 10 Sept 2017

Following the tried and tested formula designed by Barry Speed, this meet will be based in the Saas Valley with its access to over a dozen 4000m peaks and many routes in the lower grades.  It is run primarily for Aspirant and Associate members early in their alpine careers, or as a refresher for older members.

It starts with two days’ compulsory safety training and glacier instruction from professional guides.

Accommodation in Hotel Schönblick and the adjacent campsite (campers can also eat in the hotel), which offer free ski-lifts and buses throughout the valley.

Option of two weeks, or first week only.  Preference may be given to those wishing to come for the full two weeks as places are in demand.

All interested, please contact Nicholas Smith This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

Sir David Templeman-Adams

Congratulations to David Hempleman-Adams, a member since 1995, on his appointment to Knight Commander of the Royal Victorian order (KCVO) in the Queen’s New Year Honours in recognition of his services, as a Trustee for 10 years, to the Duke of Edinburgh’s Award Scheme.

 

2017 Anti Atlas Meet

THIS MEET IS NOW FULL

In 2017 the Alpine Club will return to the Anti Atlas of Morocco for more adventure trad climbing.  The meet will have 12 places and take place 7-17 October, split between the Kasbah Tizourgane and the Hotel Argana in Tafraout.  Participants should be competent leaders and aware of the remoteness of the region.  Please contact Nicholas Smith This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.">This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. to reserve one of the few remaining places. 

To see the 2016 report for a taste! CLICK HERE

 

Alps 4000m x 82: Completion by Alpine Club member, Steve Hartland

Congratulations to Steve Hartland - First Brit to complete the UIAA list of 82 x 4000m peaks in the Alps.

Steve Hartland, a member of the ACG/AC since 1990, and British Mountain Guide from Chamonix, has successfully completed the UIAA list of 82 x 4000metre peaks in the Alps in August 2016.

Alpine Club Reunion Meet, Pattedale 23rd to 25th September 2016

The meet took place in the club’s new hut, the George Starky Hut in Patterdale.  This has often been the venue for the meet, in previous years, but for the first time, we are part owners of the premises. Although the meet official runs from Friday evening, several people arrived on Thursday, with Nick Smith and Nigel Bassam climbing Kestrel Wall S and Sobrenada VS 4c on Eagle Crag Grisedale on Thursday.

Sunday 11 December is International Mountain Day.

It sounds like an invitation to go and climb a mountain - and that’s what I’ll probably do, some modest little top in the English Lake District will have to suffice. Maybe there’ll be snow.

But it would be missing the point to think that this UN-designated special day is primarily about climbing. How self-absorbed can you get? No, as of 2003, the 11th of December has been observed every year “to create awareness about the importance of mountains to life, to highlight the opportunities and constraints in mountain development and to build alliances that will bring positive change to mountain peoples and environments around the world”.

Those are the UN’s words. No mention of climbing or alpinism, though it is clear from the excellent International Mountain Day website produced by the UN Food and Agriculture Organisation that events and activities in mountain areas play an important in raising awareness. Many are planned around the world for Sunday.

Southern Sandstone Weekend 10-11 September

The "Southern Sandstone Weekend" was an informal open-to-all gathering to coincide with the AC's September Committee meeting held near Tunbridge Wells. For committee members this left a few hours on Saturday, on which to sample the delights of vertical or overhanging ball-bearings, and all day Sunday. For some it was an initiation test, for others it was revisiting venues that they'd been trying to forget about for years. The rest, wisely, paced themselves to cope with the Saturday night party.