The Club produces a regular English translation of the Chamonix conditions report from La Chamoniarde to help climbers without an understanding of French to access up-to-date information on conditions in the valley. An archive of these reports can be seen below: 

 

An End to Weekly Reports?

14/05/2025

La Chamoniarde, whose regular conditions reports we used to translate for this news page, have moved away from weekly reporting and instead are providing a continuously updating feed.

While we assess how best to keep providing regular English language reports on mountain conditions in the Mont Blanc Massif, the new feed can be found here.

 

 

 

Report: 3 January 2025

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 3 January 2025.

Happy New Year 2025 to everyone! We wish you lots of adventure and happiness at altitude!
 
 
Skiing
 
In the last 24 hours, around 30cm has fallen at La Flégère, 20cm at Planpraz, 20cm at Vallorcine, 20cm at Les Houches and 40cm at Loriaz. There was some wind during the storm, and weak layers (frost) resulting from the anticyclone at the end of 2024 may have been buried: so be careful as there may be a danger of avalanches over the next few days!
 
All the valley's ski areas and lifts are open!
 
Before the storm hit, conditions for ski touring were pretty good, especially on the slopes that don't get much sun at this time of year, where the snow remained powdery and pleasant to ski. As is often the case, there were still sections of ice and hard snow (ski and boot crampons and ice-axes are rarely too much when you go out hiking in this area). Snow cover in the woods and lower down is OK for the time of year, but not exceptional either: you can ski from the car parks (Plaine Joux, la Flatière, Le Tour, Le Buet, Finhaut, Col de la Forclaz...) but you have to take it easy on the way down. This is also the case at higher altitudes, where stones are sometimes not far away!
 
The signposted ski touring uphill track in Les Houches now starts from Maisonneuve. You can take the line 7 from Le Prarion to Maisonneuve.
 
 
The Vallée Blanche and its variants offer great conditions, with pleasant snow for most of the route. As with the other glacier itineraries, this is still early in the season and is reserved for experienced mountaineers (remember to call in a professional if you're not!) who knows how to tackle this type of terrain. Some of the technical sections, particularly under the Requin and in the moraines, require caution, vigilance and a good level of skiing.
 
The Montenvers cable car and train are open for business. The descent via Les Mottets is a possibility for experienced skiers looking for a bit of adventure (quite a few ascents/descents etc). The refreshment bar is open and ready to welcome skiers for a well-deserved break. The descent to Chamonix is possible despite a few rocks and trees in the way.
 
 
Climbing
 
The conditions of the gullies vary according to the itinerary and sector. There is sometimes a lack of filling, making certain technical passages difficult to protect and/or exposed.
 
 
There's a lot of activity, for example, in Micro-Goulotte on the Col des Montets, in Marie-Noëlle on Pointe Farrar, in Mini-Blast/Rebell Yell (For the two photos above, beware the rimaye has collapsed), in Beyond Good and Evil and Rebuffat-Terray on the Aiguille des Pèlerins, in Fil à Plomb on the Rognon du Plan, in Super Couloir, in Laratoune and Valéria on Petit Capucin, etc.
 
In winter, the Cosmiques arête, the Marbrées traverse, Petit Flambeau and the pointes Lachenal traverse are all possible when the weather permits.
 
The ice climbing season is gradually getting underway! Sectors at the bottom of the valley are still often thin and difficult to protect, such as the Crémerie (practically nothing has been formed, making climbing impossible for the time being) and Berard (only a few lines are beginning to be climbable, but only top-roping: there's no need to rush there! Remember, online booking is compulsory:https://reservation.chamonix-guides.com/reservation-cascade-de-glace-berard.html ).
 
Conditions are good on the Loriaz sector, on the left bank (the ‘dents de la mer’ wall) and the right bank (the ‘Grand Bleu’ wall) of the Argentière glacier.
 
 
Snowshoeing
 
For snowshoeing and walking, the routes at the bottom of the valley and at altitude are practicable and pleasant. Please remember that dogs are only allowed on the Montenvers train and the Tramway du Mont-Blanc.
 
 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

Report: 27 December 2024

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 27 December 2024.
 
Here's our last weekly update for this year, which is coming to a close in style!
 
 
Snowshoeing
 
We are off! The recent snowfall means that we're enjoying some great winter walks, even at the bottom of the valley. The various trails are open and signposted.
 
There are signposted high-altitude itineraries off the lifts in Les Houches (La Charme and Prarion loops), La Flégère (La Raverettaz and Tête Aubuy loops) and Vallorcine (the Posettes loop).
 
Apart from these signposted itineraries, you can also consider going to the alpages at Chailloux, Charousse and Loriaz (the refuge is open and guarded - booking required).
 
 
The Vallée Blanche (Petit Envers and to the right of the Rognon) was skied after the heavy snow and wind at the start of the week. The arête is not equipped, and the snow cover is that of the start of the season, particularly at the salle a manger (it's only December!), a good sense of the route and how to read the terrain is needed. At the start of the season, the Vallée Blanche is a more alpine activity than later in the winter.
 
 
Lots of people in the Pelissier gully today which has cleared much of the snow.
 
A boulder came loose on the last pitch and apparently hit one of the two bolts on the belay below. Repeaters, we're happy to receive photos!
 
 
The Cosmiques and Marbrées (S-N) ridges have been done. Mixed and wintry conditions!
 
Ski touring in the Aiguilles Rouges. The classics, Crochues Bérard, Pointe Alphonse Favre, Brêche de Bérard, Col de Salenton, Belvédère and Beugeant have all been done. Watch out for sections of snow that have stayed cold and have been packed by the northerly wind, as well as recent purges on the sunny slopes.
 
You can ski back down the Bérard valley. Once again, it is December, watch out for roots, stones and other hikers arriving in the other direction!
 
Le Buet looks as though it has been blasted by the recent wind.
 
 
Argentière, there were plenty of people on the Col des Rachasses, the Col des Grands Montets, the Passon (a trip report can be found here), the Col d'Argentière and the Col du Tour Noir. No info on the Col du Chardonnet and the Glacier du Milieu for the moment. The Argentière glacier descent is on the left bank.
 
It may be useful to have ski/boot crampons for all the sections which have been wind affected.
 
Ice climbing: some people on the left bank but no precise information. It looks like it's still a bit thin on the right bank, but the Grand Bleu wall seems possible.
 
In the Crèmerie sector, it sounds a bit hollow in places.
 
 
Loriaz (the refuge is open and guarded) , you'll need to be vigilant and a good skier. The forest track is narrow and tracked. A few trees are in the way and watch out for hikers coming up the track.
Higher up, at the Col de la Terrasse, there are a few cornices to watch out for.
 
The refuge is open and guarded!
 
 
The Bérard ice climbing crag is not yet open. Ice in the making!
 
 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

Report: 20 December 2024

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 20 December 2024.

Welcome to winter!
 
It's official: it's coming on Saturday night, with its procession of snowflakes. Get out your skis and scrapers, and let's get started!
 
Last night, around 20cm fell at Lognan, 30cm at La Flégère and 30cm at Montenvers. On the other hand, the strong winds at altitude have also been doing their bit, increasing the risk of avalanches (the département is under yellow alert, so be careful!).
 
The first layers of snow are not very deep, so if you venture off-piste, it's best to stay light on your skis.
 
Some routes are already in good condition, such as towards Bel Oiseau or in the area around the Refuge des Prés, which opens tomorrow. Be careful, though: you'll need a good level of skiing for some of the final sections, such as the Bérard valley, the return via Point de Vue or the bottom of the Posettes.
 
In Les Houches, the marked itinerary for ski touring has been modified by decree: it is now compulsory to start from Maisonneuve. Departures from the Prarion are only permitted between 5pm and 9pm.
 
On the Argentière glacier, the Col du Tour Noir and Col d'Argentière have better snow cover than the Col du Chardonnet, but beware of crevasses that are only just covered.
 
The good news is that all the ski lifts will be open from tomorrow, including the Aiguille du Midi. The snow up there is in good condition, but the crevasses are still wide open, so be careful.
 
For fans of ice climbing, some waterfalls and gullies have already formed, such as on the Aiguille des Pélerins, under the Chardonnet and on the left bank of the Argentière glacier. The Bérard waterfall is still forming: it's too thin to climb, so we kindly ask you not to play!
 
As far as hiking is concerned, it's the winter truce: avoid the heights and keep your hiking boots inside. The Charme loop at Les Houches is already open, and the Index and Raverettaz loops at La Flégère will be open tomorrow. The valley floor circuits should be ready after Sunday's precipitation.
 
Enjoy your skiing!
 
 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

Report: 29 November 2024

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 29 November 2024.
 
Well it started OK!
 
But as the weather warmed up, the snow disappeared at valley level and is also retreating on southerly slopes. It rained on Thursday 29/11 up to around 2,000/2,300m and the snow cover is waterlogged below that altitude. 
 
Higher up, there was a little snow: around 10cm at around 2,500m and around 15cm of wind blown snow in the high mountains.
 
The snow cover is now generally poor and very patchy, with a total of 35/40cm at 2,000m, and around 70cm at around 2,500m.
 
You can hike up to around 1500m, provided you are well shod and equipped with poles (the paths are still very slippery in the shade and sometimes icy). Small hiking crampons may be useful at the bottom of your rucksack, depending on the slopes.
 
A few ideas: petits balcons nord and sud - Bérard - Chapeau - Dard - Cerro - Floria - Les Granges chalets - Charousse chalets - Lac Vert and Ayères chalets ...
 
If you go higher, put on your snowshoes or crampons as you hike to the Chailloux or Loriaz chalets.
 
In the Le Tour sector, theres a lot of skis on/skis off. In a word, "marginal" below 1,800m.
 
So you can see that the marked ski touring and snowshoeing routes are not yet up and running!
 
The ski lifts are still closed for the time being. Only the Montenvers train will open tomorrow, Saturday 30 November.
 
As far as alpine activities are concerned, Beyond Good and Evil has been visited over the last few days without any further information. No other recent feedback!
 
 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

Report: 22 November 2024

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 22 November 2024.


It's here! In the space of a week, the landscape has been completely transformed and we are now almost fully into winter.

The storms of the last few days have deposited more than 60cm of very wind blown snow around 2,000m (gusts of 125km/h recorded overnight in the Flégère sector and near the village of Le Tour).

There was around 90cm of snow around 2,300m (difficult to measure) with large accumulations and areas of scoured snow. The wind has wreaked havoc in all directions and the snowpack looks set to be very patchy...

Don't forget to take a look at the webcams!

 

The ground is just whitened at the bottom of the valley. So you'll have to walk (or pedal) to get on your skis, as all the lifts in the valley are still closed for the moment. But just enough to have a ski at Le Tour (before the forecasted thaw). On that subject, watch out for the  coming sudden rise in temperatures.

 

So we are gradually getting going but with no base depending on the altitude (bring your pebble skis ;)

 

Hiking is coming to an end (you need to stay below 1,500m and be well equipped). We can see you coming with your snowshoes: it might be worth taking them with you if you want to go up to Chailloux or Loriaz.

There is still not enough snow on the marked ski touring/snowshoeing routes.

 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.