The Alpine Club, the world’s first mountaineering club, was founded in 1857.  For over 150 years, members have been at the leading edge of worldwide mountaineering development and exploration. 

With membership, experienced and aspiring alpinists benefit from a varied meets programme, regional lectures with notable guest speakers, reduced rates at many alpine huts, opportunity to apply for grants to support expeditions, significant discounts at many UK retailers, extensive networking contacts, access to the AC Library and maps - and more! 

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News

Alan Pope

We are saddened to receive news of the death of our member, Alan Pope.

Members are invited to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.

George Rhodes

News has reached us of the death of our Longstanding member George Rhodes, who died aged 90 on 29th March.

The funeral was held at St Lawrence’s Church, Congleton Road, Biddulph on 12th April.

Members can add tributes by logging in to Alpinet or send them to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..

Up Close with Mike Kosterlitz

Interview by Glyn Hughes

Mike, could you start by telling us about your earliest climbing experiences.

When I turned up in Cambridge in 1962 I had done very little real climbing, but I was very keen to do more, and I had already discovered that I seemed to have some talent for it. I went on a meet to the Derbyshire gritstone as soon as I could, and, wearing my mountain boots (I had not heard of PAs at the time), I got up a few climbs. Shortly after that I fell about 25ft off a VS because the rubber on the toe of my boot was worn away, and I tore my ankle. The more experienced members of the CUMC (Nick Estcourt, Rupert Roschnik, etc) were not amused by this novice showing off. However I managed to show them that I was actually able to climb, and that I could be competitive with them. That winter I joined the Club’s Ben Nevis meet and got my first taste of ice climbing, which I also enjoyed. I think the reason that I was competitive with the best of them was that I was quite strong, and was able to keep my nerve on rock climbs. I reasoned that if other people had done it before me, even if I could not see how to do the next bit, it was obviously possible and there must be holds there, and so I should be able to do it too. I did not frighten easily, and my (flawed) reasoning worked, so I went up the grades quite quickly, and become one of the better climbers in the CUMC.

Alpine Climbing Group – February 2019 Winter Meet

Charles Inglis Clark Hut, Ben Nevis

Heading up to the Tower Face Comb

The first meet of the ACG, following its revival at the end of 2018, was based at the CIC hut, under the north face of Ben Nevis, built in memory of Charles Inglis Clark who died of wounds in Mesopotamia in 1918 during the First World War.  As well as being a member of the Scottish Mountaineering Club, he was a member of the Alpine Club and one of those commemorated in the 2018 Alpine Journal in the article to commemorate the sacrifice of another era's young Alpine Club members who died in the First World War.

Bruno Messerli

We are saddened to receive news of the death of our member, Bruno Messerli, who passed away during the night of February 4th 2019.

The funeral took place in Bern on the 15th of February.

Members are invited to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.

Andy Nisbet (1953 to 2019)

Contribution to climbing in the Alps, the Greater Ranges and of course Scotland

Andy Nisbet, Lurchers Crag 2019 (Photo Sandy Allan)

It has been a week since the loss of two leading Scottish mountaineers in the same accident on Ben Hope on the 5th February 2019 that left the winter climbing community stunned. It appears likely that Steve Perry and Andy Nisbet fell from the upper section of a new route on the West Face of Ben Hope, while completing a new route together. 

Christopher Simpson

It is with sadness that we report the news of the death of our member, Christopher Simpson.

Members would be welcome to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.

John Temple

News has reached us of the death of Club Member John Temple.

Members are invited to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.

 

Sue Baldock

It is with sadness that we report the news of the death of our member, Sue Baldock, on the 25th November.

Members would be welcome to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website

Ian (Pin) Howell

We are saddened to receive news of the death of our member, Ian (Pin) Howell, who died suddenly and unexpectedly on Tuesday, November 27th.

Members are invited to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.  so that they can be posted on the website

100th Anniversary of the Cambridge University Mountaineering Club

The club’s 100th anniversary was celebrated on 19th June 2005 with a dinner held at St Catherine’s College. Following this meeting a number of articles were written by CUMC alumni to create the CUMC 100th Anniversary edition journal. This contains a series of fascinating accounts of the history of the club, the talented mountaineers involved, and the incredible trips that alumni have been a part of. The full series of articles can be found HERE.

www.cumc.org.uk

 

British Minya Konka Expedition 2018

In late September myself and Nick Bullock headed out to Sichuan to attempt the first ascent of the south face of Minya Konka. Despite only having been climbed by the relatively straightforward north east and north west ridges, the mountain has a very dubious reputation for the number of people who have died while attempting it. 

Kendal Mountain Festival

The Alpine Club is hosting a dedicated session at the upcoming Kendal Mountain Festival. 

Split into two parts the first half will be hosted by John Porter and Brian Hall. They will try to keep their old friends "the Burgess twins" Aid and Al at bay when they recount their legendary old and new tales. A rare visit to Europe by the twins- and certainly a promise of high class entertainment.

The second half of the session will be a lively panel discussion with Mick Fowler, Tom Livingstone, Dr. Melanie Windridge and Banff Festival director Jo Crostonon the influence of social media in the mountain world. Jonny Dry will be moderating.

The session will held  on Sunday the 18 November from 12:30 to 2:30pm at the Kendal Town Hall. More information and tickets are available via this link

 http://www.mountainfest.co.uk/programme/event/tales-from-the-alpine-club

 

Takphu Himal

This group (part of the southern end of the Nalakankar Himal)  lies in the very furthest NW corner of Nepal  (just south of Gurla Mandhata 7694m) geographically in Tibet whilst politically in Nepal.  It is trans-Himalayan rather like Dolpo or Mustang.

Julian Freeman-Attwood led a team comprising AC members Ed Douglas, Nick Colton and Bruce Normand along with Christof Nettekoven.

Tony Streather

We are saddened to receive news of the death on the 31st October of our Honorary Member Tony Streather, President of the Club 1990-1992 and a member of the Kangchenjunga first ascent team in 1955.

A celebration of his life will be held in St John the Baptist Church, Hindon, Wiltshire, on 1st December, at 12pm..

Members are invited to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.

https://www.theguardian.com/world/2018/nov/07/tony-streather-obituary

 

Reciprocal arrangement with the Oread Mountaineering Club

The Club has a reciprocal agreement with the Oread Mountaineering Club covering the use of each others huts.

The OMC operate two huts, one at Rhydd-Ddu in Snowdonia, and one near Baslow in the Derbyshire Peak District. Details can be found on the OMC website (www.oread.co.uk)

AC members may book places at both Oread huts. Requests should be sent to the booking secretary Michael Hayes (This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. ). AC members will pay the Members’ overnight rate, and will be entitled to use the Members Room at Rhydd-Ddu.

The Derbyshire hut is small, with only 10 places. At weekends a party wishing to use the hut has to book all 10 places, but individual mid-week bookings are possible.

Anglo-New Zealand Kishtwar Expedition 2018

Flat Top, The North Spur is Centre Right and the East Ridge is on the left

The Anglo-New Zealand Kishtwar is a bit of a grand name for Richard “Reg” Measures’ and my (both AC members) trip to the Indian Himalaya – originally Steve Fortune from New Zealand was going to join us as well, but two months before departing, work commitments meant he was unable too.

The aims of the trip were to make the first ascent of the North Spur of Flat Top (6100m) and the South Face of the Kishtwar Eiger (circa 6000m). Ultimately we were unsuccessful on attempts on both of these peaks due to unseasonably bad weather.