- Parent Category: News
- Created: Wednesday, 10 October 2018 19:49
Friday 15 February
The Army and Navy Club (The Rag)
36 Pall Mall
London SW1Y 5JN
The Army and Navy Club (The Rag)
36 Pall Mall
London SW1Y 5JN
Alpine Club recognise Nanga Parbat rescuers with Spirit of Mountaineering commendation
On the 21st September the Alpine Club recognised the action taken by expedition leader Krzysztof Wielicki and four climbers Adam Bielecki, Denis Urubko, Piotr Tomala and Jarosław Botor earlier this year on Nanga Parbat. As part of the K2 panel session held this year at the 23rd Ladek Mountain Festival, Victor Saunders presented our Spirit of Mountaineering commendation to all five for their involvement in the rescue of French climber Elisabeth Revol and attempted rescue of Polish climber Tomek Mackiewicz.
This year's Piolets d'Or ceremony celebrated alpinism in a new and refreshing way, with a healthy mix of pageantry, humour, respect and honour”. So said world-renowned Canadian author of mountain-related books, Bernadette McDonald, after her visit to the Ladek Mountain Festival, which took place from September 20-23 in Ladek Zdroj, a small spa town in southern Poland.
Going climbing or trekking in Nepal sometime soon?
If so, here’s a chance to come home with much lighter bags and to support a very worthy cause at the same time
The BMC are seeking for a Chair for their Board of Directors. Details can be found at: https://www.thebmc.co.uk/chair-sought-for-board
This was announced in the BMC newsletter this week.
Further details below.
News has reached us of the death of Club Member James Cadzow Smith.
We are saddened to receive news of the death of our member, Sir John Rowlinson.
News has reached us of the death of our Honorary Member, Jeff Lowe. We understand that he had suffered from an unknown neurodegenerative condition for the last eighteen years
I first set eyes on the Weisshorn in 2006, mid-way through a trek known as the Tour of the Matterhorn. As we crossed into Switzerland, over the Theodulpass and past the Matterhorn, the huge pyramid of the Weisshorn appeared at the end of a row of incredible peaks, the highest and most massive of them all, at 4506m. Until then, the Matterhorn, which was plastered in snow and thus out of condition, had commanded our attention, but now I could not take my eyes off the Weisshorn, and it was to dominate our attention for the next two days as we walked down the Oberer Theodulgletscher, through Zermatt, and along the Europaweg above the Mattertal.
The Club has produced an A3 calendar for 2019.
Interview by Adele Long
Hi Uisdean, how long have you been a member of the Alpine Club?
Like many UK mountaineers you seem to have cut your teeth on Scottish rock, how does this prepare you for alpine climbing?
I suppose the thing is you get a lots of technical climbing, so for me when I do lots of winter climbing or trad that really helps to gives you a lot of confidence that you will be able to get up pretty much any of the technical cruxes on a route [in the Alps] because you know they are a few grades lower than what you would climb at home.
A lot of the mixed climbing on the Bheinn, the routes are short and if they were anywhere else no-one would climb them, they are just little bits of rock, but because they are technically really hard and you can just go and do them from your house in a day, you get in a lot of climbing. Its the volume of hard climbing more than any specific climb. You would spend weeks and weeks in the Alps to get that volume of hard climbing.
The Club is always looking for opportunities to make the Alpine Club a louder voice in influencing events in the mountaineering community. To this end, in May the AC used its base in the Lakes to play host to the UIAA’s Mountain Protection Commission. Delegates from Europe and Asia gathered at the club’s George Starkey Hut in Patterdale for the Commission’s annual face-to-face meeting.
It is with sadness that we report the news of the death of our member, Robin Wilkinson, on the 26th June.
We are saddened to receive news that our member, Tony Strawther, passed away early on Tuesday 3rd July after a short illness.
by Malcolm Bass
Thanks to a generous donation from a club member, combined with Alpine Club and Montane recurring funding, we are currently able to support more expeditions than ever before. But we are getting more applications than ever before, and most of them are for appropriate objectives. This is good news in that it shows that exploratory alpinism within the Alpine Club is in rude good health. But it presents problems for the grant giving sub-committee in deciding how best to use the Fund, and sadly we were not able to support a number of interesting expeditions. Before the autumn 2018 deadline the sub-committee will be producing some revised guidelines on how we prioritise expeditions for funding.
If you are attending the club’s Joint Alpine meet to Randa between the 7th & 28th July and passing through Zermatt then you may want to look out for a couple of locations that have a bit of a connection with the club.
THE ROYAL VICTORIA HOTEL
LLANBERIS, GWYNEDD LL55 4TY
5:30-6:30pm Presentations on two recent expeditions funded by Montane Alpine Club Climbing Fund grants from Tom Livingstone and Emily Ward, followed by Mick Fowler with Phill Thomas on their first ascents, in 1978 & 1979, of Cascade and Central Icefall Direct.
7:30 for 8:00pm Annual Dinner with guest speakers Al and Aid Burgess.
AC Photo Competition winning pictures will be displayed and the overall winner announced.
Ticket price: £33 or £22 for those aged 35 and under on the date of the dinner. This is for a three-course dinner (excluding drink, for which there is a cash bar).
To book your ticket(s):
News has reached us of the death of Club Member Teddy Faure-Walker.
In years gone by the Alpine Club made specific arrangements between the Alpine Club and CAF, SAC and CAI and for that reason reference is made to these national clubs on the Alpine Club membership card
On the 6th of June 2018, the British team of Guy Buckingham, Malcolm Bass and Paul Figg succeeded in making the 1st ascent of the Janhukot in the Garhwal region of the Indian Himalaya via the south west buttress onto the south ridge. This remote and difficult to access mountain lies beyond the well-known peak of Shivling (6543m), at the end of the long Gangotri glacier, 19 km beyond Base Camp.