- Parent Category: News
- Created: Tuesday, 16 May 2017 21:16
News has reached us that John Ashburner passed away on 5th May at Aintree Hospital, Liverpool, after a courageous 5-year battle with cancer of the larynx.
This year the Piolets d’Or has set up its base-camp in Grenoble and, in a new format, is taking place in two parts.
At the April event the 9th presentation of the Piolet d’Or Career Award was made to Jeff Lowe, the 8th Honorary AC Member recipient of this award, and the 2016 route awards were announced. These will be presented at the second 2017 Piolets d’Or event in Grenoble in November during the Recontrés Cine Montagne Film Festival.
Applications for the Montane Alpine Club Climbing Fund grants closed on 1st March 2017. We have pleasure in detailing the successful applicants and wish them every success for their forthcoming expeditions.
Montane Alpine Climbing Club Fund ( MACCF) grants are now available for both official Alpine Club expeditions and independent private expeditions involving Alpine Club members.
Grants are usually given to expeditions attempting new routes or first ascents in high and / or hard to reach mountain ranges e.g. the Himalaya and Karakoram ranges. Grants will now not typically be given for the more well-travelled mountain areas in Central Alaska, Patagonia, or Greenland (unless the applicants are young members who are new to expeditionary climbing). First ski ascents or descents are not usually supported. A new feature of the grants is that they may now be awarded to teams attempting early repeats of technical routes, especially on 7000m and 8000m mountains, and/or if they aim to improve on the style of earlier ascents. Preference is given to expeditions by students and younger members, and to those who have not previously received a grant.
Details of funding and the application process can be found HERE.
The Tatra Mountains are situated on the border between Poland and Slovakia. During winter, they offer excellent alpine climbing – snow, ice and mixed routes, followed by sharp ridges that take you to spiky summits. Descents are often tricky. There is no problem with acclimatisation as the altitude is 2000 – 2600m.
The annual AC Scottish winter climbing meet returned to the Corran Bunkhouse for the weekend of 25th/26th February 2017.
It is with great sadness that we report the death on 6th March of Peter Mallalieu, Honorary Keeper Emeritus of the Club’s Paintings.
Peter joined the Club in 1992 and in 1996 became Honorary Keeper of the Club’s Paintings. In 2007 he published ‘The Artists of the Alpine Club’, the first ever biographical study of Alpine Club artists
Peter Mallalieu's funeral was held at Banbury Crematorium on Friday 17 March at 2.00 pm.
George Starkey Hut, Patterdale, NE Lakes
Main Road (A592), Patterdale Village, Cumbria. Nearest Postcode: CA11 0NN
Grid Ref – NY 396162 (OS Outdoor Leisure Map No 5)
The AC are planning a training focused meet based in Patterdale (Lake District). The focus will be on transferring skills to Aspirant Members and those who wish to improve their Alpine skills.
Informal training and guidance will be provided from more experienced members within the club (IFMGA guides and qualified instructors).
Topics will range from what to put into your rucksack to some basic Alpine mountaineering skills.
The Alpine Club Journeyman Meet is aimed at Aspirant Members who have already climbed at least 7 to 10 PD routes in the Alps, and may have already participated in the Saas Fe Aspirant Meet in previous years.
The participants’ will be aiming to complete the 20 PD routes needed to become Full Members of the Alpine Club, and looking for sufficient climbing partners to make this happen
The Journeyman will be held in Argentiere just outside of Chamonix with access to routes such as the Cosmiques Arete, Aiguille Rochefort and of course Mont Blanc. The meet will be held over two weeks in a self catering chalet with shared rooms in the village. A nearby campground offers an alternative to the chalet.
After a mandatory induction day with a local mountain guide covering safety and route finding, the participants will be encouraged to explore the mountains surrounding Chamonix with their climbing partners. During the first evening a member of the Chamonix Gendarmerie will also provide an overview of specific dangers of the region. The meet also aims to host a special guest to share in their experiences in expedition planning and route choice.
The meet will be held from 2nd September to 16th September after the main summer season to take advantage of quieter huts and mountains. It also gives members of the Saas Fe Aspirant Meet the opportunity to extend their stay in the Alps by one week.
The AC Library’s Exhibition: 'The Golden and Silver Ages of Mountaineering 1855-1900' has opened at the Frenchay Village Museum.
The exhibition includes: photographs, first edition books, archives and artefacts highlighting the climbing partnerships between AC members and AC members' expeditions from the 1870s as far afield as the Caucasus and the Karakoram Himalayas and viewing is highly recommended.
(l-r) Hywel Lloyd, Barbara Grigor-Taylor and Tony Westcott setting up the exhibition at the Frenchay Village Museum.
At: Frenchay Village Museum, 1 Begbrook Park, Winterbourne, Bristol BS16 1SZ
From: 7 January to 29 March 2017
Opening hours: Saturday & Sunday, 2pm-5pm, and Wednesday, 1pm-4pm.
Lecture: 9th March - A lecture on the exhibition, by ACL Chairman, Hywel Lloyd, at a venue near the museum DETAILS HERE
3 June – 2 July
We are saddened to learn of the death of Alan Lyall who died on Monday, 9th January, He had been a member for 25 years, joining as a full member in 1991. Alan is known for his book The First Descent of the Matterhorn: A Bibliographical Guide to the 1865 Accident and its Aftermath.
It is with sadness that we report of the death of Harry Sales
Harry’s funeral is on Wednesday 25th January 2017. In the morning there will be a private cremation and after that, everyone is welcome to attend a Service in Celebration of Harry’s Life, at 2.30 in Paul Church, near Penzance. This will be followed by Afternoon Tea in the Church Hall. Afternoon tea with friends was one of Harry’s favourite things!
Photos by John Atherton
The one that shows Harry climbing was taken in April 2000, when I took Harry aged 82, on his last climb - Allison's Rib at Bosigran.
Following the tried and tested formula designed by Barry Speed, this meet will be based in the Saas Valley with its access to over a dozen 4000m peaks and many routes in the lower grades. It is run primarily for Aspirant and Associate members early in their alpine careers, or as a refresher for older members.
It starts with two days’ compulsory safety training and glacier instruction from professional guides.
Accommodation in Hotel Schönblick and the adjacent campsite (campers can also eat in the hotel), which offer free ski-lifts and buses throughout the valley.
Option of two weeks, or first week only. Preference may be given to those wishing to come for the full two weeks as places are in demand.
Congratulations to David Hempleman-Adams, a member since 1995, on his appointment to Knight Commander of the Royal Victorian order (KCVO) in the Queen’s New Year Honours in recognition of his services, as a Trustee for 10 years, to the Duke of Edinburgh’s Award Scheme.
THIS MEET IS NOW FULL
To see the 2016 report for a taste! CLICK HERE
Congratulations to Steve Hartland - First Brit to complete the UIAA list of 82 x 4000m peaks in the Alps.
Steve Hartland, a member of the ACG/AC since 1990, and British Mountain Guide from Chamonix, has successfully completed the UIAA list of 82 x 4000metre peaks in the Alps in August 2016.
The meet took place in the club’s new hut, the George Starky Hut in Patterdale. This has often been the venue for the meet, in previous years, but for the first time, we are part owners of the premises. Although the meet official runs from Friday evening, several people arrived on Thursday, with Nick Smith and Nigel Bassam climbing Kestrel Wall S and Sobrenada VS 4c on Eagle Crag Grisedale on Thursday.