We have recently learned that ACG member Gareth Shellard sadly died on 29 January as the result of a climbing accident. Our thoughts go out to his friends and family at this difficult time.
La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 23 February 2024.
Some quick bits of information before the weekend!
We’ve had a decent drop of snow at altitude from Thursday’s storm.
There has been a lot of rain at valley level and the cross country pistes are closed for the time being. On the other hand the Mer de Glace grotto opened last Saturday 24 February.
The Cosmiques hut opened last weekend.
The rain snow limit has been fluctuating around 1800m to 2000m, dropping temporarily to 1500m (a few centimetres of snow).
Above that there’s been an average of 30 to 50 cm of fresh snow at 2000 to 2500m. Around a metre at 3800 m. Very strong winds at all altitudes have been moving the snow around resulting in some big wind slabs.
The snowfall is obviously welcome and we should be able to make some great tracks.
Today’s avalanche control (PIDA) resulted in some big releases and therefore great caution will be needed in your choice of routes this weekend. See photos on the website from the Envers du Plan and Vallée Noire.
Gullies will be heavily loaded for the next few days.
Not much change concerning walking and snow shoeing routes since our last update on the 15th February.
Please do not hesitate to consult us about your plans, whatever the activity and give us feedback on what you get up to.
Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.
Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.
Over a 10-day period during mid January to mid February the AC will hold its first meet, together with a number of Romanian climbers, in the mountains of Transylvania.
The Mount Everest Foundation (MEF), an organisation administered jointly by the Alpine Club and the Royal Geographical Society, has, for 70 years, provided funding for exploration in the world's mountain regions. This has often taken the form of grants for mountaineering expeditions, but has increasingly focussed on funding for scientific expeditions as well. Some of the most iconic ascents in mountaineering history were supported by the Mount Everest Foundation; from the first ascent of Kangchenjunga in 1955 to the first complete traverse of the Mazeno Ridge in 2012.
To celebrate its 70 year history, the MEF has commissioned a new film detailing their proud legacy of exploration and outlining their current priorities. You can watch it below.
You can learn more about the MEF, including how to apply for funding, via their website.
La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 15 February 2024.
A very mild start to the half-term holidays. There was a little snow last weekend (especially at higher altitudes) but some real snowfall would be welcome!
The snow cover remains good above 1800m, but below that it’s poor!
So there's plenty of snow in the ski areas (except on the way back to the resort). At this time of year, we would like to remind you more than ever to ski with caution, moderating your speed and controlling your skis and your direction! Just a reminder: it is strictly forbidden to skin up the slopes.
Ski Touring
All the classic ski touring routes are popular (always keep your ski crampons close by). The light snowfalls on Sunday and Monday have eased conditions a little. Departures and returns without lifts remain very dry: skis on at the bridge on the Roman road at Les Contamines, at 1650m below the Loriaz refuge; the bottom of the Buet valley is still very sporty (little snow, avalanche debris to cross).
Nothing special to report as far as glaciers go either. The boardercross at the bottom of the Col du Passon is no problem for good skiers (one stream to cross). The Col du Chardonnet is easy to cross (NE-facing couloir snowy, rimaye filled with snow). Vallée Blanche/Brèche Puiseux sector (good general conditions): you can ski to the new Mer de Glace cable car (last ascent to Montenvers at 4pm!)
All the variants of the vallée blanche have been done. The salle à manger is fine but there are a few visible holes at the entrance and exit. The Pierre à Béranger and the central couloir (access to the Talèfre basin) look OK.
Climbing
The snowfall at altitude (30-40 cm at the Aiguille du Midi) put a slight halt to the gully activity (while it purged and cleaned up) but didn't change the conditions much either. On the whole, it's dry (often quite dry and more technical than the ratings given in the guidebooks), although there's still plenty to climb in some areas (we have had no feedback since the start of the week and the snow): Pointe du Domino (Petit Viking); Triangle de la Verte (Ravanel-Frendo + Claire Chazal fairly dry, La Pépite in quite good conditions); Mini Blast still a victim of its success, cornice at the top of Rebuffat-Terray purged; E face of Tacul (Gabarrou-Albinoni, Modica-Noury, Supercouloir, Lafaille.); Requin sector (Sorenson-Eastman: initial section difficult to protect, moraine tricky, Ice is Nice: lots of threatening snow).
The ice climbing season didn't really happen this year. No feedback, but still a bit of activity on the left bank of the Argentière glacier (Déferlante, Mini Couloir; it's over for EMHM) and at Cogne.
Hiking
Given the low snowfall at low altitude, there is exceptional hiking just about everywhere below 1600m. Higher up, it's not possible to do anything other than follow the signposted snowshoe trails or the Chalets de Chailloux (from La Flatière) or the Chalets de Loriaz! You can't get to Montenvers on foot or via the Plan de l'Aiguille!
Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.
Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.
The Club was deeply saddened to learn of the death of Bernard Newman. Bernard had been an AC member since 2012 and was a former editor of the Alpine Journal.
There will be a get together in memory of Bernard at The Grouse Inn in Keighley from 12:30 - 17:00 on 18 March.
La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 1 February 2024.
As far as ski touring is concerned, not much has changed since last week's report (carrying skis, unpleasant Bérard valley, etc.).
It hasn't snowed again and the snow is generally hard, even bullet hard at certain altitudes, aspects and times of the day. Aim for slopes that will have softened a bit (this depends on the temperature, wind and cloud cover).
Generally speaking, it's 'best' at altitude on slopes that don't get too much sun (above 2500m) with cold snow and a good grip.
Once again, we urge you to be careful and not to forget your couteaux and boot crampons to avoid falls and sliding.
On the other hand, there has been some good gully activity despite rather dry conditions (or the new "normal"). Here's some feedback (many thanks to those who filled in our cahier de course), which is tricky because it always risks increasing the risk of overcrowding: if one or more roped parties are already involved in a gully, it's better to go for plan B, "choice involves giving something up!"
Beware also of the weather and the NW wind at altitude.
Argentière glacier :
The Passon, Chardonnet, Tour Noir and Argentière cols are getting regular traffic. The bottom of the Passon has not improved, nor has the gully above Les Pétoudes (the latter should be avoided).
The couloir en Y on the Aiguille d'Argentière is probably OK. The rimaye on the Glacier du Milieu is filled in, so it’s easy. The narrow section is very dry (descent in 3 abseils of 20m, belays on flakes/spikes which need to be checked, newish tat) then a little snow above until the col (ice but which can be avoided, therefore preferable to leave the skis at the bottom of the gully). Looks like ice between the col and the summit.
One team baled at the rimaye of Petit Viking, a "big glide crack with loose snow". The rest of the route is in good condition by eye.
Looking at it, the top of the NE face of Les Courtes is too dry to ski.
The Lagarde couloir was climbed last weekend in good conditions.
Some teams seen on the Ravanel-Frendo, but no further information.
Claire Chazal (Pointe Farrar): the rimaye can be crossed 100m to the right of the gullly. Fairly good conditions (just the right amount of ice, mixed sections are protectable) except for the dièdre which is dry and hard.
Still plenty of activity on the modern routes on the Aiguille de Bochard.
Plan de l'Aiguille
Still a lot of teams on Mini Blast, still a cornice at the top of Rébuffat-Terray.
Still a few teams on "Nouvelle Génération" but it's the end (mixed passage on pitch 1 and a 75 m pitch very difficult to protect + last two pitches after the dry traverse). The belays have been reinforced.
The belays on Cécile and la Mésange (Peigne) have been re-equipped so that you can abseil down them (60m). On the whole an easy gully on squeaky snow/ice that is quite difficult to protect (1 to 3 points per pitch) + a dry pitch in the middle with some very tricky moves that can be easily protected.
Fil à Plomb doesnt look doable: numerous dry passages (exposed slabs) above the key pitches.
On the face of it, the Mallory could be an option, but the quality of the snow is a big unknown (often loose sugar snow at these altitudes and orientations at the moment).
Glacier du Géant area
The Cosmiques arete and the Marbrées traverse are in good condition and accessible on foot.
One team turned back on the Cosmiques icefall (more water than ice).
Triangle du Tacul as dry as ever.
Goulotte Pellissier fairly dry.
Numerous teams on the Gabarrou-Albinoni: good conditions, fairly well filled (pitches 1 and 2 a bit thinner). There is a lack of bolted belays (summer rockfalls) and sometimes a bit of moving together is needed. Modica-Noury has plenty of ice.
Good conditions (direct start via mixed pitches, then a relatively well-filled gully) on the Supercouloir, but obviously a lot of people.
Goulotte Lafaille in good conditions.
Valeria gully: the approach under the serac (which looks threatening) is "scary" (recent ice fall). Goulotte "pretty dry but it's done".
One team turned back at the Ratoune rimaye ten days ago (no ice, sugar snow).
Requin sector: fairly good conditions in Ice is Nice (last pitch dry, abseils re-equipped at 60m) and in Eastman-Sorenson.
Few changes to the skiing in the sector (Vallée Blanche, Col d'Entrêves, Brèche Puiseux busy).
Couvercle sector: access and descent OK via the central couloir. The Whymper on the Verte can be considered (alpine conditions).
Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.
Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.
Former AC president Mick Fowler is the subject of a new video profile from outdoor retailer Blacks. In a wide-ranging interview, Mick discusses his life in the mountains; from early experiences with his father to some of his most famous ascents. He also discusses the challenges of balancing a family life and day job alongside an active climbing career and details his reaction to a 2018 cancer diagnosis. Watch below.
The club has received news that Mike Mortimer has died following an accident at Murla.
More details will follow.
La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 27 January 2024.
Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.
Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.
The Club will be hosting a London dinner and lecture event for members on 16 February 2024 at The Army and Navy Club, London ("The Rag").
Alongside a three-course meal, the event will feature a talk by Honorary AC member George Lowe titled 'Reflections on a Life in the Mountains'.
George was the reipient of the 2023 Piolets d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award in recognition of his incredibly long and successful climbing career. As well as monumental contributions to North American climbing, George is perhaps best-known for his 1978 attempt on the north ridge of Latok I with Jim Donini, Michael Kennedy and Jeff Lowe.
For a further taste of George's life and climbing career, you can watch his American Alpine Club Legacy Series interview below.
The event will start at 18:30 with George's talk, followed by drinks (cash bar) and dinner.
Ticket sales are now closed.
We are saddened to announce the death last August of Bill Crawshaw, a member since 1960
La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 13 January 2024.
Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.
Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.
The Club recognises the need for members to stay up to date with changing mountaineering techniques and updates to best practice. To make this information more accessible to our members, we are introducing Continuing Mountaineering Development workshops which will run on the first full day of the Summer Alpine Meet. For the 2024 meet, this will be 16 June.
These two-hour sessions, which will be delivered by guides, are free to attend and are open to both members and experienced guests who are joining for the meet.
Taking place at the campsite, the sessions, which will run from 10AM-12PM and 1PM-3PM, will cover specific information pertinent to the local area, a refresher on glacier travel/crevasse rescue, kit maintenance/replacement and will provide the opportunity for members to ask questions on topics of concern.
Registration will be sought in advance with the sign-up form to the Summer Alpine Meet in order to gauge interest and numbers.
La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 5 January 2024.
Happy New Year everyone!
Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.
Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.
Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.
Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.
Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.
Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.
In May 2023, Keith Ball, Mike Pescod and AC member Guy Buckingham travelled to the Garhwal Himalaya for an attempt on the unclimbed south-east ridge of Thalay Sagar (6805m). The expedition was supported by both the Alpine Club Climbing Fund and the Mount Everest Foundation.
Mountain Equipment have now released a short film of their expedition which you can watch below.
Alpine Club member and Editor of the Himalayan Journal Harish Kapadia has, over a period of nearly two decades, conducted interviews with many notable figures from the world of mountaineering. In 2023, Kapadia formally made a gift of these recordings to the Alpine Club Library.
From December 2023 onwards, we will be releasing these interviews once a week via our YouTube channel so that they can be enjoyed by mountain-enthusiasts throughout the world. Episodes will release on Thursday mornings UK time. If you subscribe to the channel, you will receive a notification when new episodes go live.
The first episode, an interview with Sir Chris Bonington conducted in March 2008, is now online and can be watched below. In the recording, Sir Chris discusses his personal journey into climbing, his 1970 expedition to the south face of Annapurna, the evolution in Himalayan style from siege to alpine and his experience of managing mountaineering teams in a leadership role.
The Alpine Club Library holds a wealth of mountaineering material to which we are very pleased to add these recordings.
