The Alpine Club, the world’s first mountaineering club, was founded in 1857.  For over 150 years, members have been at the leading edge of worldwide mountaineering development and exploration. 

With membership, experienced and aspiring alpinists benefit from a varied meets programme, regional lectures with notable guest speakers, reduced rates at many alpine huts, opportunity to apply for grants to support expeditions, significant discounts at many UK retailers, extensive networking contacts, access to the AC Library and maps - and more! 

Join Us
 

News

Savage Arena: The Legacy of Joe Tasker

Savage Arena: The Legacy of Joe Tasker

A Mountain Heritage Trust Exhibition, exploring the life and legacy of Joe Tasker. 

- at Ushaw College, 25th June-1st September and Keswick Museum, 9th September-May 2017

The opening of the exhibition is at Ushaw College, Durham, DH7 9R, on 25th June, 6.30pm - 9.00pm

The evening will begin at 6.30pm and is free to attend. There is a talk by mountaineer and award winning author, John Porter, and a raffle.  

To sign up for the exhibition opening please see:

https://www.eventbrite.co.uk/e/exhibition-launch-savage-arena-the-legacy-of-joe-tasker-tickets-25969537586

Joe Tasker, alongside Dick Renshaw, claimed the first British winter ascent of the North Face of the Eiger in 1976. Joe then went on to higher mountains from that point claiming the first lightweight oxygen-less ascent of Kangchenjunga with Pete Boardman and Doug Scott in 1979. 

Joe and Pete lost their lives on an attempt to summit Everest by the NE ridge in 1982.  The exhibition will celebrate Joe's climbing career as well as his successful and influential writing.

Tate Britain "Painting with Light"

 

Tate Britain "Painting with Light"

The Alpine Club Photo Library would like to bring to your attention an exhibition just opened at Tate Britain entitled "Painting with Light"

This is an exhibition showing the relationship between early photography and British art. The club has loaned one image from the photo collection, entitled "Rosenlaui Glacier" by Friedrich von Martens, taken c1858.

The exhibition opened on 11th May and runs till 25th September 2016. The link to the relevant website for further details is

 http://www.tate.org.uk/whats-on/tate-britain/exhibition/painting-light

 

Alpine Club to play a part in mountain protection

The Alpine Club now has a voice in the UIAA’s Mountain Protection Commission - the arm of climbing’s international body that endeavours to ensure the world’s mountains remain as wild and unsullied as possible - natural havens for the enjoyment and livelihoods of climbers and mountain people for generations to come.

BMC Multiple Club Affiliation

BMC Multiple Club Affiliation

AC members belonging to two or more BMC affiliated clubs can reclaim their additional membership payments. Additional subscriptions can be refunded direct to the member, or be paid to one of their clubs, or used to convert to BMC individual membership. However, bear in mind that by not asking for a refund this money will be devoted to the numerous good causes that the BMC supports, especially the Access and Conservation Trust, and from which all active AC members greatly benefit. Refund claim forms can be downloaded from the BMC website and must be returned by 30 June 2016.

MountaiNow Safety App


The Club is supporting the development of the MountaiNow App. This App aims to share current mountain conditions, in order that alpinists will be better prepared for climbs in the Alps. It will be delivered in four languages.

Chamlang (7319) - Montane Alpine Club Climbing Fund trip news

Chamlang (7319) - Montane Alpine Club Fund trip news

News from Andrew Houseman on his attempt with Jon Griffith on the north spur of Chamlang (7319m) in Nepal supported by the Montane Alpine Club Climbing Fund. But not a totally wasted trip for Jon and Andy: their acclimatisation was an ascent of Ama Dablam.

By Andy: Chamlang wasn't to be this year. Even the initial easy snow slopes were going to be difficult to access as Jon found out here on the first of only two pitches we climbed. Looking across from Ama Dablam we knew the route wasn't in the conditions we need, the whole Everest region was exceptional dry this spring. All we found was loose rotten rock and not a single bit of usable névé. The climbing was going to be too slow and the thought of dangerous, loose rotten rock for pitch after pitch once/if we got into the meat of the route higher up wasn't exactly motivating or what we were after. Back in base camp later that day as the usual afternoon snow started and the sounds of thunder echoed around the valley we were pretty relived we'd bailed rather than carrying on higher just to have a look like we'd briefly contemplated. 

 

Indian Mountaineering Foundation Newsletter

For those with an interest in the Indian Himalaya, the 24-page illustrated digitial version of the May 2016 Indian Mountaineering Foundation Newsletter is available for download HERE

Petzl and C2C

Since 1975 Petzl's famous line drawings have enabled thousands of mountaineers and climbers to improve their techniques on rock, snow and ice.

American Alpine Club Yosemite meet

American Alpine Club 2016 International Climbers' Meet

The American Alpine Club Is now taking applications for the 2016 International Climbers’ Meet to be held In Yosemite Valley

The American Alpine Club is hosting its 9th annual International Climbers’ Meet (ICM), to be held the week of September 25 - October 2, 2016 in Yosemite Valley. Experience with placement and removal of protection, multi - pitch rope management, at least two years of technical rock climbing, and the ability to follow sustained 5 - 8 granite is mandatory. The goal is to host a diverse group of climbing abilities from a multitude of countries. American Alpine Club members from the USA will be participating again this year.

For more information and to apply online, go to their website: https://americanalpineclub.org/international-climbers-meet/

Jim Curran

It is with sadness that we report the death of Jim Curran on 5th April, following a long illness. Many will know Jim was a freelance mountain cameraman, writer and artist. He joined the Club in 1985 and exhibited some of his paintings at the AC London Clubhouse in 2004.

Alan Rouse, Dave Wilkinson, Brian Hall, Jim Curran and Al Burgess, K2 Expedition, 1986

J. M. C. Evans

In memorandum - Chuck Evans

Chuck Evans kindly contributed a short story to my book The Pen y Gwryd Hotel: Tales from the Smoke Room (Gomer Press, pending).

I have reproduced this below; it is a reflection of the happy times Chuck and his extended family had at the Gwryd. I trust it makes a small but fitting contribution to his memorial.

Kind regards,

Dr Rob Goodfellow   (New South Wales)

‘Whatever Mr Briggs says is true’ - Chuck Evans

Living in Bangor and then Capel Curig, my brothers Robin and Peter and I were often taken to the Pen y Gwryd when we were boys and, later on with my father (Sir Robert Charles Evans, deputy leader on the 1953 British Everest Expedition and leader of the expedition which first climbed Kangchenjunga in 1955) and mother, Lady Denise Evans (the first female President of the Alpine Club) for the regular Everest and Kangchenjunga reunions. Later still, many times, it was after completing the Snowdon Horseshoe for a well merited pint.

The PyG was, and still is, a magical place. As children, we were often installed in the snug behind the bar and Blodwen, the ‘maid of maids’ (dressed in traditional Welsh black), would look after us by serving hot buttered toast, forever after known in our family as ‘Pen y Gwryd toast’. And I recall that there were funny napkins with a few choice phrases written in both Welsh and English. (Probably this is still the limit of my Welsh.)

As a boy, I was fascinated by the oxygen cylinder and other holy relics of the 1953 British Everest Expedition in the glass case in the Smoke Room. And every member of the expedition had a silver pint beer tankard; and, when my father was not there, I got to drink from it too.

One story I like to recall is about the Police visiting the Hotel, questioning Blodwen about after-hours or Sunday opening. Blodwen gave the policeman a stern look and despite persistent interrogation all she would say was, ‘Whatever Mr Briggs says is true.’

I also remember Jane Pullee organising Hallowe’en parties where the staff were dressed up as ghosts. Such happy times!

In the year that my father died (1995), we celebrated the 40th anniversary of the ascent of Kangchenjunga and my two year old daughter, Natasha, made the first cut in the cake, whilst my then six month old boy, Charlie, lay asleep on a blanket on the floor in the PyG dining room as we drank champagne opposite the ‘captain’s table’, where for many years Chris Briggs would host, amongst others, the likes of David Cox and Kevin Fitzgerald, two real gentlemen!

Wonderful memories!

Chuck Evans (1959-2016) was the eldest son of Sir Charles and Lady Denise Evans. He also did some Himalayan exploration in the late 1980s and early 1990s, including Jaonli in India, Churen Himal in mid-west Nepal and Saipal in far west Nepal, as well as a visit to Khumbu. When not enjoying the mountains or sailing, Evans advised French companies in difficulties with their respective banks.

The AC and the Piolets d’Or

The AC and the Piolets d’Or

The Alpine Club and the Piolets d’Or are together again in April 2016! You can join the party – details below – and it would be great to see lots of Alpine Club members there.

Four AC members will be honoured at the celebration of the spirit of modern alpinism, most of whom have been on the Piolets d’Or stage before:

- The Lifetime Achievement Award will be given to Honorary Member Voytek Kurtyka. AC members Sandy Allan and John Porter will be amongst those giving speeches in tribute to Voytek’s achievements.

Voytek Kurtyka, AC Honorary Member, (photo M. Slowarczek)

- Nominated for a Piolet d’Or: the north face route of Paul Ramsden and Mick Fowler on Gave Ding

Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden (l-r)

- Nominated for a Piolet d’Or as part of a four-man team: the east face route on Cerro Kishtwar by Honorary Member Marko Prezelj and team

Marko Prezelj, AC Honorary Member, and Liv Sansoz (photo L. Griffin)

The celebration will be in La Grave, at the foot of the Meije this year – find more detail here http://www.pioletsdor.net/index.php/en/

 

 

Norway Ice Fest Meet Report 19 – 28 Feb 2016

Norway Ice Fest Meet Report 19- 28 Feb 2016 

A mixed team of attendees from several UK Climbing Clubs finally got under way on February 19th. 

Condition on the ice routes were superb. Plenty of fat ice. The track in the Rjukan Gorge was good and direct to many lines, thankfully without much deep snow, and no sign of the river below it. Almost all of the usual routes were in great condition, sometimes a little brittle ice was encountered but in general, no-one could or did complain.

One of the main venues was the Vemork Bridge routes. The usually snowed-up and icy road down to and getting out of the Vemork Bridge car park was no trouble this season even without  4-wheel drive cars. With the excellent conditions, we all got stuck in to some great ice climbing. 

Read the whole article here: 7th Joint AC/CC Rjukan Norway Ice Fest Meet Report 19 – 28 Feb 2016