There have been no big changes since the last update. Conditions generally remain very good.
The recent bad weather has put down a dozen or so centimetres of fresh snow at the Cosmiques and Gouter huts. This was combined with strong winds which are likely to continue through the weekend. Be warned, this could result in windslab and wet snow avalanches at altitude.
It will be necessary to wait several days for certain routes to come back into condition.
Albert 1er : Table Ridge, the normal route on the Aiguille du Tour, Tête Blanche, Petite and Grande Fourche are being done regularly. For the Chardonnet, the Forbes ridge remains feasible but the approach to the Migot Spur has become seriously complicated.
Argentière : Climbing is still popular behind the hut. The Jardin ridge, Flèche Rousse, Glacier du Milieu and the traverse of the Tour Noir are also popular.
Mer de Glace Basin: Rock climbing is popular in this area, as well as near the Talèfre and the Leschaux. The Whymper is no longer recommended and the Moine ridge still has a lot of snow. The Moine is OK.
Torino : the conditions are generally good with numerous parties on the Grand Capucin, the various satellites, the Diable Ridge and the Gervasutti Pillar.
Good conditions also for the Italian side of the Mont Blanc starting from the Monzino, Gonella, Dalmazzi and Boccalatte huts. The Quintino Sella bivouac, (for the Tournette Spur,) is closed for repair work.
Cosmiques : The rock routes are feasible but the 3 Monts will certainly be out of condition for the next few days due to risk of windslab avalanche. The Frendo remains very popular, however there is still a passage of ice to exit the route.
Conditions were recently excellent for the Grands Mulets route via the N ridge of the Dôme. Contact the hut warden for more information regarding the best route across the Jonction.
Conscrits : generally good conditions. The traverse of the Aiguilles de Tré la Tête, the traverse of the Dômes de Miage and the traverse to the Bionnassay have all been done recently.
For hikers ; the situation has much improved, though there are still some snow patches which might cause problems, for example at the Cols de la Glière and Salenton, (heading for Mont Buet.)
The snow/rain level will have dropped today, (5th August). This means, as mentioned above, it will be several days before normal conditions return.
Please do not hesitate to inform the Office de Haute Montagne of the details of your outings
