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Up Close with Becky Coles

Interview by Stuart Worsfold

How did it all start for you with climbing? Did your parents climb as well or were they just walkers?
I got into the outdoors through walking with my parents, but they didn't do any climbing. Walking up Snowdon would be an extreme expedition for them. In fact, I didn't really like walking when I was small, especially if I could see how far I had to walk, so they find what I do now quite amusing. 

An End to Weekly Reports?

14/05/2025

La Chamoniarde, whose regular conditions reports we used to translate for this news page, have moved away from weekly reporting and instead are providing a continuously updating feed.

While we assess how best to keep providing regular English language reports on mountain conditions in the Mont Blanc Massif, the new feed can be found here.

 

 

 

Report: 3 January 2025

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 3 January 2025.

Happy New Year 2025 to everyone! We wish you lots of adventure and happiness at altitude!
 
 
Skiing
 
In the last 24 hours, around 30cm has fallen at La Flégère, 20cm at Planpraz, 20cm at Vallorcine, 20cm at Les Houches and 40cm at Loriaz. There was some wind during the storm, and weak layers (frost) resulting from the anticyclone at the end of 2024 may have been buried: so be careful as there may be a danger of avalanches over the next few days!
 
All the valley's ski areas and lifts are open!
 
Before the storm hit, conditions for ski touring were pretty good, especially on the slopes that don't get much sun at this time of year, where the snow remained powdery and pleasant to ski. As is often the case, there were still sections of ice and hard snow (ski and boot crampons and ice-axes are rarely too much when you go out hiking in this area). Snow cover in the woods and lower down is OK for the time of year, but not exceptional either: you can ski from the car parks (Plaine Joux, la Flatière, Le Tour, Le Buet, Finhaut, Col de la Forclaz...) but you have to take it easy on the way down. This is also the case at higher altitudes, where stones are sometimes not far away!
 
The signposted ski touring uphill track in Les Houches now starts from Maisonneuve. You can take the line 7 from Le Prarion to Maisonneuve.
 
 
The Vallée Blanche and its variants offer great conditions, with pleasant snow for most of the route. As with the other glacier itineraries, this is still early in the season and is reserved for experienced mountaineers (remember to call in a professional if you're not!) who knows how to tackle this type of terrain. Some of the technical sections, particularly under the Requin and in the moraines, require caution, vigilance and a good level of skiing.
 
The Montenvers cable car and train are open for business. The descent via Les Mottets is a possibility for experienced skiers looking for a bit of adventure (quite a few ascents/descents etc). The refreshment bar is open and ready to welcome skiers for a well-deserved break. The descent to Chamonix is possible despite a few rocks and trees in the way.
 
 
Climbing
 
The conditions of the gullies vary according to the itinerary and sector. There is sometimes a lack of filling, making certain technical passages difficult to protect and/or exposed.
 
 
There's a lot of activity, for example, in Micro-Goulotte on the Col des Montets, in Marie-Noëlle on Pointe Farrar, in Mini-Blast/Rebell Yell (For the two photos above, beware the rimaye has collapsed), in Beyond Good and Evil and Rebuffat-Terray on the Aiguille des Pèlerins, in Fil à Plomb on the Rognon du Plan, in Super Couloir, in Laratoune and Valéria on Petit Capucin, etc.
 
In winter, the Cosmiques arête, the Marbrées traverse, Petit Flambeau and the pointes Lachenal traverse are all possible when the weather permits.
 
The ice climbing season is gradually getting underway! Sectors at the bottom of the valley are still often thin and difficult to protect, such as the Crémerie (practically nothing has been formed, making climbing impossible for the time being) and Berard (only a few lines are beginning to be climbable, but only top-roping: there's no need to rush there! Remember, online booking is compulsory:https://reservation.chamonix-guides.com/reservation-cascade-de-glace-berard.html ).
 
Conditions are good on the Loriaz sector, on the left bank (the ‘dents de la mer’ wall) and the right bank (the ‘Grand Bleu’ wall) of the Argentière glacier.
 
 
Snowshoeing
 
For snowshoeing and walking, the routes at the bottom of the valley and at altitude are practicable and pleasant. Please remember that dogs are only allowed on the Montenvers train and the Tramway du Mont-Blanc.
 
 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

Report: 27 December 2024

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 27 December 2024.
 
Here's our last weekly update for this year, which is coming to a close in style!
 
 
Snowshoeing
 
We are off! The recent snowfall means that we're enjoying some great winter walks, even at the bottom of the valley. The various trails are open and signposted.
 
There are signposted high-altitude itineraries off the lifts in Les Houches (La Charme and Prarion loops), La Flégère (La Raverettaz and Tête Aubuy loops) and Vallorcine (the Posettes loop).
 
Apart from these signposted itineraries, you can also consider going to the alpages at Chailloux, Charousse and Loriaz (the refuge is open and guarded - booking required).
 
 
The Vallée Blanche (Petit Envers and to the right of the Rognon) was skied after the heavy snow and wind at the start of the week. The arête is not equipped, and the snow cover is that of the start of the season, particularly at the salle a manger (it's only December!), a good sense of the route and how to read the terrain is needed. At the start of the season, the Vallée Blanche is a more alpine activity than later in the winter.
 
 
Lots of people in the Pelissier gully today which has cleared much of the snow.
 
A boulder came loose on the last pitch and apparently hit one of the two bolts on the belay below. Repeaters, we're happy to receive photos!
 
 
The Cosmiques and Marbrées (S-N) ridges have been done. Mixed and wintry conditions!
 
Ski touring in the Aiguilles Rouges. The classics, Crochues Bérard, Pointe Alphonse Favre, Brêche de Bérard, Col de Salenton, Belvédère and Beugeant have all been done. Watch out for sections of snow that have stayed cold and have been packed by the northerly wind, as well as recent purges on the sunny slopes.
 
You can ski back down the Bérard valley. Once again, it is December, watch out for roots, stones and other hikers arriving in the other direction!
 
Le Buet looks as though it has been blasted by the recent wind.
 
 
Argentière, there were plenty of people on the Col des Rachasses, the Col des Grands Montets, the Passon (a trip report can be found here), the Col d'Argentière and the Col du Tour Noir. No info on the Col du Chardonnet and the Glacier du Milieu for the moment. The Argentière glacier descent is on the left bank.
 
It may be useful to have ski/boot crampons for all the sections which have been wind affected.
 
Ice climbing: some people on the left bank but no precise information. It looks like it's still a bit thin on the right bank, but the Grand Bleu wall seems possible.
 
In the Crèmerie sector, it sounds a bit hollow in places.
 
 
Loriaz (the refuge is open and guarded) , you'll need to be vigilant and a good skier. The forest track is narrow and tracked. A few trees are in the way and watch out for hikers coming up the track.
Higher up, at the Col de la Terrasse, there are a few cornices to watch out for.
 
The refuge is open and guarded!
 
 
The Bérard ice climbing crag is not yet open. Ice in the making!
 
 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.