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Some brief summary information.

In general terms conditions in the high mountains haven’t changed much recently. Mixed routes are gradually becoming less snowy. Rock routes are generally staying in condition but it’s better to be in the sun because it’s becoming cold in the shade.

Take care with thunderstorms or showers at this time of year as new snowfall often doesn’t melt depending on the altitude and aspect. Rock routes can become much more difficult with snow or verglas.

Huts are gradually closing. Staying open at the moment are: Albert 1er; Envers des Aiguilles, Cosmiques, Torino, Nid d'Aigle, Tête Rousse, Goûter, Durier, Conscrits and Monzino.

You can find provisional dates of hut closure here.

Ditto for the lifts with the closure of Planpraz/Brévent this weekend and Flégère the weekend of the 19th.

 

The Forbes arête is only for the most experienced: the start and the descent are very technical.

According to the latest news the Charpoua glacier is still passable. On the other hand there may be snow/verglas on the Dru traverse.

The Nantillons glacier has taken quite a hit. The rimaye du Rognon is open but you can go down into it to get onto the rock. The rimaye at the start of the Cordier pillar has been crossed but there is no further information. The Charmoz rimaye is complicated but an S shaped snow bridge (first to the left and then to the right) allows you to cross. A route on the right bank lets you avoid the upper part of the glacier (steep and icy).

Otherwise take the abseils from the C.P terrace (named after Charlet and Payot who marked their initials here).

Stone fall in the afternoon from the left bank of the glacier can reach the track under the rognon.

 

Midi-Plan: things are deteriorating here as well especially just after the Col du Plan (alternating patches of ice and rubble). The traverse after the Rognon du Plan abseil is exposed.

 

The Cosmiques arête is very dry (little snow).

 

Mont Blanc via the Trois Monts: still very technical especially at the Tacul rimaye and at the col du Mont Maudit (vertical 4m step at the rimaye, then an exposed horizontal traverse for 100 m). It is also icy towards the Rochers Rouges.

 

The Rochefort arête, the Dent du Géant, the Kuffner arête and the Aiguilles du Diable traverse are still busy but becoming more and more snow free. Beware of snow and verglas on the Jorasses traverse (especially with the forecast weather). The descent by the voie normale is still OK.

 

Generally good conditions on the S side of Mont Blanc (Innominata, Pillar Rouge du Brouillard) but crowded in the Eccles bivouac hut.

 

Dômes de Miage: glacier and ridge in good general condition. A bit of ice on the way up to the Eastern summit (point 3,673m). It’s also beginning to be icy on the descent to the Col de la Bérangère.

 

With the gradual closure of huts, information is becoming more scarce.