MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 09/06/2021 with updates from 10/6
After some good weather last week, followed by a few days of instability, it looks like summer is finally starting tomorrow, (Thursday.) The ski season is giving way to alpinism.
However, there are still significant quantities of snow on the approaches, (glaciers), the slopes and the ridges, (cornices) There is a risk of snow sluffs, especially as it warms up.
The rocks in the high mountains still have snow on the ledges and ice in the cracks.
Also there is the issue of re-freezing, which is a problem typical for this time of the year, (short nights and often the need for very early starts.)
On needs to take account of all these factors when choosing a route, and to be flexible. Skis or snowshoes remain useful for certain approaches.
Ski touring season has probably come to an end. It remains possible at the Emosson dam sector or starting from the Aig du Midi, (upper part of the Valley Blanche, there and back to col d'Entrèves etc).
Mont Blanc is still feasible on skis by the Trois Monts or Grands Mulets (see below for details).
The significant amounts of snow still limit hiking to below 2000/2200m, depending on the sector and orientation. Above this, one needs to be properly equipped, (good footwear, gaiters, poles, crampons.)
More information on recommended hikes is here.
People are starting to do the Tour du Mont Blanc. This is two weeks later than in recent years, partly due to Covid but mainly due to the large amount of snow. All the “high” parts are completely under snow, (not just snow in patches.) This means the path markings are buried, so knowing how to use a map is necessary. Walking in snow makes the stages tougher than usual, especially if a good track has not yet been formed Some of the sections are exposed, where a slide could have serious consequences. For these reasons, the TMB is only suitable for people with mountain experience and equipment, (good footwear, gaiters, poles, crampons.)
Some information by sector :
Tour Sector
The lifts open this weekend.
The approach to the hut, (open since 4/06) by the summer path, as usual for this time of the year, has snow and is exposed in places. It is suitable only for alpinists for the moment. When approaching by the moraine, the snow starts near the junction with the summer path at around 2400 m.
The classics in this area have been tracked on foot, e.g. Table Couloir and normal route on the Aiguille du Tour, Tête Blanche, Petite Fourche. The Migot has been done several times over the last few weeks and when there has been a good freeze. There are no problems for the descent by the normal route. Due to the large amount of snow, the Forbes ridge has not yet been done.
Argentière Sector
Skis (starting below the Lognan at about 1660/1700m) or snowshoes are useful in this sector which remains quiet. The hut opens on 19th June.
There is little information for this sector.
The classic cols should be feasible with skis. (Tour Noir, Argentière) as well as the Aiguille d'Argentière by the Glacier du Milieu.
It should be possible to ascend the Y couloir, the Couturier couloir and the Courtes NE. No information concerning the more technical, mixed routes.
The rock is gradually drying and should soon be ready for climbing soon!
Charpoua Sector
There is still a lot of snow above the ladders to reach the hut which should open on 24th June. The rock is not yet dry.
A party climbed Naia on 1/06 in good conditions, but these have likely changed since then. No info for the Y couloir.
Talèfre Sector
There is still snow in the central couloir and at the Pierre à Bérenger. ( approach on ski possible from the Aig du Midi if you set of early.) The approach to the hut, which is closed all summer due to works, is by the Egralets ladders, (probably still snow higher up.)
The Whymper couloir should be feasible, given a good freeze, (not always possible to judge with the midnight start needed in order to descend before midday!) Snowshoes useful for the approach.
A good freeze and snowshoes are also needed for the snow routes, (Pointe Isabelle, Courtes normal route) or easy mixed (Droites normal route) in this sector.
As each year, one needs to be cunning and choose the right moment to do the “Grande Courses” in this sector, (e.g. Jardin Ridge)
Leschaux Sector
The hut opens 18/06.
No information for this sector. SW couloir of the Eboulement probably. As in other sectors, the rock is gradually coming into condition.
Envers des Aiguilles/ Requin Sector
The is a lot of snow on the approach to the Envers hut, (due to open 26/06). It is probably possible to rock climb in the lower sectors.
The Requin hut opens 19/06. It seems to be finished for the Brèche Puiseux. No information for the rock routes yet.
Helbronner Sector
The classic routes are tracked on foot and in good condition, e.g. Marbrées traverse, Aiguille d'Entrèves traverse (no abseil in descent), Tour Ronde (normal route, Gervasutti couloir, N face). Take care to descend the normal route on the Tour Ronde early. (Info of 10/6 : the Gervasutti couloir bergschrund is no longer passable, parties turned back the morning of 10/6, soft snow which prevented taking 1m50 step, or very difficult)
Dent du Géant is feasible but in “winter” condition. There is snow with a good track to reach the Salle à Manger, (a positive), then some verglas/snow/ice on the rocks. The Rochefort Arete is not yet tracked and looks to be challenging. There are large cornices which oblige one to pass on the N side, which is often icy. (The snow has either not stuck or was blown off. )
The Kuffner will be in condition once the snow stabilises, (and with a good freeze.) Likewise, for the Aiguilles du Diable, once the snow goes from the rocks. ( looks to be dry, though there will certainly be snow on the N side. A party went to try it on 10/6) The bergschrunds look to be well filled in.
The satellites are drying quickly, (see photos). Still snow on some ledges. Parties on the Pyramide du Tacul. The traverse of the Valley Blanche is tracked on foot but it is best not to leave the track!
Aiguille du Midi Sector
The routes near to the lift are tracked on foot.
Good conditions for the Cosmiques ridge.
Several parties turned back last week at the abseil on Pointes Lachenal traverse, (suspicious noises and stone fall.) The mixed section below the west summit is in good condition. Possible to do the two summits, there and back.
The Contamine-Negri is still in good condition, (mixed low down, then all on snow, abseil points in place). There have been some parties on the Contamine-Grisolle, where conditions are thin but OK. The Chéré couloir remains dry low down.
Some parties did the Vent du Dragon last weekend, (P1+P2 OK, P3 a bit dry, P4 thin but protectable.) Conditions here could changequickly.
The Gervasutti Coulior on the Tacul was skied early morning 08/06 in spring snow, with an abseil to cross the bergschrund. Here also, conditions could quickly change.
There has been regular activity on the Trois Monts. A short ice step remains at the level of the Tacul bergschrund, crampons needed. Nothing special thereafter, the exit is by the shoulder. The traverse line is fairly high up under the lower serac of the Maudit face. There is an easy ramp on the left to overcome the middle serac. A good track then leads to the Mont Maudit col, (tracked on foot 10/6). The bergschrund is crossed on the far right, which avoids some friable ice. (Maudit not re-traced on 10/6 but an old track is still visible on the upper part.) There are a few metres of ice after the col. Be aware of some treacherous, lengthways crevasses on the traverse to the Brenva col. The Mur de la Côte alternates between hard snow and ice. Again, there are some treacherous crevasses between the Rochers Rouges and the Rochers des Mulets.
Rock climbing is starting on the S face of the Lachenal, which is drying quickly though still some ice in the cracks. Some parties on the Cosmiques Spur and the Aig du Midi S face. It is wet in places and some snow/ice in the cracks.
The Midi Plan ridge is coming into condition. There is still a lot of snow, especially on the thin section after the Rognon (a party turned back recently.) Not re-tracked on 10/6
Plan de l'Aiguille Sector
The Mallory-Porter and Eugster Diagonal were popular last week in ascent and remain feasible, given a good freeze and sleeping at the Plan. (Mallory done on 10/6 from the hut in good conditions, a bit dry in the mixed section before the ramp.) The Frendo has not been done yet.
The rocks have a lot of snow remaining in this sector.
Mont Blanc by the Grands Mulets
Still good skiing conditions !
From the tunnel, the skiing starts at about 2000m. There is plenty of snow on the approach from the Plan de l'Aiguille, even if you have to bypass the moraine either low down, (preferable) or high up.
The Jonction high up is OK, (especially in descent which avoids putting the skins back on,) even if there is some walking at the Jonction proper.
The good news is that the N ridge of the Dôme du Goûter was tracked on Wednesday morning. 15cm of snow now covers the previously icy section. One ice axe suffices, (two to be extra cautious.)
The N face remains in good condition, (see photo.)
Mont Blanc by the Aiguille du Goûter
The Bellevue cable car and the TMB as far as Bellevue opens this weekend. The TMB up to the Nid d’Aigle is foreseen for the end of the month.
For the Nid d'Aigle, the approach by the chalets de l'Are is recommended.
Conditions are good for the start of the season; all on snow and a track which will improve with use.
Miage/Bionnassay Sector
The Plan Glacier and Durier huts open on the 12th June. Skis or snowshoes are still useful in this sector.
It is possible to use skis at around 1700m above Miage and after the Mauvais Pas.
The Mettrier ridge was done on 06/06, in good conditions.
The Dômes de Miage is in good condition and is popular on ski or on foot both as a traverse or there and back, (no ice and the ridge is broad.)
For the ski descent of the Armancette, the walking starts at around 2100m above the lake.
Mont Tondu and the Aiguille de la Bérangère, (there and back) have also been done.
Mont Blanc S side
The Monzino hut, (crampons useful for the approach,) opens on 11/6, the Gonella on 12/06. More information soon.
Aiguilles Rouges
The lifts open this weekend. As one can see on the webcam de l'Index, there is a lot of snow remaining. It is possible to find some snow free rock routes, but crampons and ice axes will be needed for the approach and descent.