BMC Honorary Medical advisor David Hillebrandt chairs a team of three mountaineering doctors - Chris Imray, Paul Richards and Jeremy Windsor - to share advice, experiences, and a Q&A.
The Alpine Club owns a large collection of mountain art and photography, formed from donations by members, artists and generous collectors. We are keen to make our collection as available as possible to the public and, in addition to our regular programme of exhibitions, we also offer several ways for you to purchase or license copies of these sublime works.
Whether you're a researcher who wants to inspect a specific image, a media professional in search of historic footage or a lover of mountain art looking to decorate your walls, our team of volunteers are here to help.
Sandy Irvine on the 1924 Expedition to Mount Everest
The Alpine Club Photo Library extends from the birth of alpinism in the 19th century all the way up to the present day and includes images from some of mountaineering history's most famous expeditions along with a small selection of film footage. If you are searching for a specific image or would like to gain a better idea of our collection, please contact our Photos Team at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. They will be able to assist you with licensing digital copies from our collection.
A portion of the Club's artistic collection is available to view on-demand via ArtUK. These high-quality stills, produced from the original works, are also available to purchase as framed prints via the ArtUK website. The funds raised from sales go back into the Alpine Club Library, enabling us to preserve and curate our collection.
A larger sample of our collection can also be viewed on The Watercolour World, but TWW does not currently offer an option to purchase prints of these works.
If you're in the market for something smaller by way of a gift or memento, our shop includes greeting cards and calendars featuring photos and paintings from our collection, as well as pieces from contemporary mountain artists.
Also available for purchase is 'The Artists of the Alpine Club', a compendium of AC artists and their works, compiled and written by Peter Mallalieu and featuring some of the finest examples from our archive.
Finally, if you are not looking to purchase a work, but would like to see an image or painting from our collection for research purchases, you can always reach out to our librarian at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. They will be able to direct you to the appropriate department and/or arrange a viewing.
6th - 13th March 2020
Words & Photographs by Alex Metcalfe.
Attendees: Mike De La Rue (organiser), Jonathan Bamber, Alex Metcalfe, Tom Davis-Merry, Mark Grist (guest), Tom Priestly (guest), John Venier, Ian Bryant.
Things did not start well for the AC Slovakia meet. A six hour delay gave members of the team ample time to repack & worry about baggage allowance whilst others went to see the sights and sounds of Luton. The team finally convened that night to fly out and meet the Johns the following day in Tatramanska Lomnica.
Nanga Parbat’s Mazeno Ridge
Rick Allen and Sandy Allan talk about their traverse of the Mazeno Ridge in 2012, which was first attempted by Doug Scott back in 1992. Scott Ellsworth will speak first on the history of climbing on Nanga Parbat.
The First Ascent of Koyo Zom West Face in Pakistan’s Hindu Raj, with Tom Livingstone
Koyo Zom (6877m), Hindu Raj range in Pakistan. Tom Livingstone.
Members will be saddened to learn that our Honorary Member Joe Brown died yesterday,15 April, peacefully at home, We send condolences to his family and all his friends.
Members can log in to submit their tributes or send them to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.
In 2013 six mountaineers, who had met whilst studying in Leeds and Sheffield, went off on their first expedition. Alpine Club members Tom Bell, Tim Elson and Hugh Thomas were part of the team that travelled to the relatively unexplored area of the Tien Shan mountains on the border between China and Kyrgyzstan. There, multiple glacier systems with multiple unclimbed 5000m peaks had seen few mountaineers before. Over 4 weeks the team achieved several first ascents and were able to get to grips with the steep learning curve of a first expedition, which was partly funded by grants from the Alpine Club and the Austrian Alpine Club.
Tom, Tim and Hugh will talk about their experiences and afterwards answer questions from the audience.
If you would like to join this ClubCast please check your emails again on Monday 20 April, when a link will be sent out. The link will also be available on the Alpine Club Facebook Member Area.
Three Alpine Club members talk about their favourite route on a 4000er: Paul Newby on the West Ridge of the Dufourspitze, Max Streeton on the Weisshorn Schaligrat, and Becky Coles on the Lauteraargrat which links the Schreckhorn and the Lauteraarhorn.
Aimed at whetting appetites for a future trip, the talks will be followed by a Q&A session.
Due to the corona virus situation the AC Pembroke Weekend meet due to take place on Friday 8th to Sunday 10th May 2020 has been cancelled.
Thank you for all the positive comments about yesterday evening’s virtual lecture. If you would like to send any feedback please email the office or post them on Facebook.
We are sorry that the Zoom limit of 100 participants prevented some of you from attending. Please note that a recording will be publicly available shortly.
We are delighted by the interest shown, and as a result the Zoom limit for future virtual lectures has now been increased to 500 participants. The next lecture will be on
Tuesday 14 April at 19:30
The Eiger Challenge
Jerry Gore takes us on a 25 minute bumble up the 1938 route on the North Face of the Eiger. After his two very different experiences on this iconic route, Jerry gives us his take on how to prepare and train for a successful ascent.
Jerry’s light hearted glimpse at the world of uphill alpinism will be followed by a Q&A session.
If you would like to join this lecture please check your emails again on Monday 13 April, when a link will be sent out. The link will also be available on the Alpine Club Facebook Member Area
If you have ideas for future lectures, or other activities for these challenging times, you can share them here:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1kYB-IVQzvlrN3KBPlRCFXbcFRkVTcbBZf6SGU123Ypc/edit?ts=5e85c62f
We hope that you and your families are all keeping well.
While we are all practicing social isolation, the club is proposing to host a series of short virtual lectures, using Zoom. This technology has the advantage that those participating have the opportunity to ask questions directly to the presenters.
To launch this initiative the presenters of the last London lecture, Victor Saunders, Nick Smith and Nigel Buckley, are planning to broadcast a shorter version of their lecture, live, on
Tuesday 7 April
19:30
Due to the corona virus situation the Swanage meet due to take place on Saturday 25th and Sunday 26th April 2020 has been cancelled.
Due to the corona virus situation the Scottish Isles 2020 meet due to take place from Thursday 14 May 2020 to Monday 25 May 2020 has been cancelled.
Due to the corona virus situation the George Starkey Hut Maintenance Meet due to take place from Friday 01 May 2020 to Sunday 03 May 2020 has been cancelled.
Due to the corona virus situation the Lundy meet due to take place from Thursday 02 April 2020 to Saturday 04 April 2020 has been cancelled.
Due to the corona virus situation the AC Chamonix ski mountaineering meet due to take place from Friday 20th to Sunday 29th March 2020 has been cancelled.
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MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 06/03/2020
Some (brief) information for the weekend.
One spell of bad weather has been quickly followed by another, making the good weather windows very short. The main activities, therefore, have been off piste skiing, ski touring and snow shoeing, (on the trails at the head of the valley.)
On Thursday, there was 50cms of fresh snow at Vallorcine and a bit more in Courmayeur, (due to pockets of cold air). In the Chamonix valley and the Prealps, (Chablais and Aravis,) it rained up to 2000m
At altitude, there has been 40 to 50cm of new snow reported since Thursday morning. PIDA, (Avalanche Patrols) have released unstable snow with depths of 40cm to 1m, sometimes in large quantities.
Concerning the off piste, the snow is relatively good and the successive snow dumps have increased the chance of making “fresh tracks”. Be aware of the avalanche risk.
The three designated ski touring trails (Les Houches, Trapette at Argentiere and Le Tour) are feasible.
All the classic ski tours could be OK but be aware of the avalanche danger. It is possible to start skinning from Notre Dame de la Gorge, Plaine Joux (Pointe de Pormenaz), La Flatiere (Aiguillette des Houches), Buet (Bérard Valley / Buet), Couteray (Loriaz sector), Finhaut (Bel Oiseau sector) and Col de la Forclaz (Pointe Ronde).
Concerning the glaciers, the Argentiere sector is popular, (hut open, telephone working again.) It is still probably too early for the Aiguille d’Argentière by the glacier du Milieu, even if the recent snows have improved the lower part.
No information for the Brèche Puiseux or the Conscrits sectors, (weather windows often too brief.)
The recent snowfalls have improved conditions for the lower part of the Mer de Glace and it is possible to reach Montenvers without problems. The people responsible for the ice cave have put out a warning that the old, (lower,) ice cave is at risk of collapsing. It is therefore best not to pass this way but to approach the steps from above.
The descent by the Mottets snack bar, (open this weekend,) down to Chamonix is possible, with some rocks showing through on the lower part of the glacier and on the bends before the Planards Farm, (not to be recommended to people with new skis!)
The marked snow shoe trails at altitude are feasible but check first for those managed by the Company du Mont Blanc on their website: : http://www.skiplan.com/bulletin/bulletin.php?station=chamonix®ion=alpes&pays=france&lang=en). The more experienced snow shoers can consider the unmarked trails up to Chailloux or Loriaz.
For the hikers, it is best to keep down in the valley on the signposted paths. Please check the avalanche risk before doing certain routes. For example, the way up to the Chapeau cafe, normally practicable this winter, has frequently to be avoided during the last few weeks due to avalanche risk
Following a stonefall, the path beside the Arve between Les Monquarts and the Eaux Rousses path is closed until 13th March.
There is still icefall climbing on the true left bank of the Argentière glacier, (Déferlante sector) and at Cogne, (Patri, Lillaz gully, Patinaggio Artistico etc).
There is no recent information for the gullies, except for a party seen on the Pellisier (Pointes Lachenal) last weekend.
A party did the Fil à Plomb on Wednesday: deep snow, crux still with ice but too thin for ice screws.
The gullies on the N face of the Aig du Midi, (Vent du Dragon etc ), and the Triangle du Tacul look to be very dry.
News has reached us of the death on the 2nd March of our member Trevor Braham, who had been a member since 1951.
Members can log in to submit their tributes or send them to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.
In January 2021 we are planning a 12-day winter mountaineering trip to the High Atlas mountain range, Morocco. The High Atlas rises to over 4000m with reliable winter mountaineering, ice climbing and winter hill walking easily accessible from two guarded huts.
We will fly to Marrakech before transferring to the small town of Imlil. The following day we will walk into the CAF hut below Toubkal, where we will spend 7 nights. From here, we will have easy access to reliable ice climbing, alpine ridges and winter climbing of a similar character to Scottish winter climbing, though usually with sunshine! The area in the summer (and winter) is popular for trekkers wanting to walk up Toubkal, but beyond the trade routes you will find yourself in remote alpine wilderness.
Some information for the weekend!
The Argentière and Cosmiques huts open this weekend. The Requin, Torino, Loriaz and Lognan huts are already open.
The recent snowfalls have improved ski conditions. There are still some ice plates or hard snow, notably on the moguls or convex slopes, (drop offs). In general conditions are reported to be good, even if some areas are wind affected. It was warm on Thursday and the snow on the slopes receiving the sun is being transformed, (could be crusty).
Most of the classic ski tours should be feasible this weekend, plus the forecast is for good weather.
At mid altitudes: for example, Crochue-Bérard traverse, Cols des Dards and Bélvédere, (there and back), Col de Beugeant, Mont Buet, Col de l'Encrenaz from the Col des Montets, Col de la Terrasse, the Bel Oiseau / Fenestral sector, (some walking low down), Contamines sector: Col de la Cicle / Jovets lakes, (roman road icy, crampons useful).
On glaciers: Helbronner sector (the Marbrées, Toula glacier, col and shoulder of the Entrèves, Brenva glacier were done on Thursday 20/02), Brèche Puiseux, Argentière sector (Col des Grands Montets, Col du Passon, Col du Chardonnet + 3 cols. N.B. the glacier du Milieu is very dry and not recommended. Col du Tour Noir, Col d'Argentière), descents towards Trient (this sector has been affected by the wind, it is only just possible to get to the parking on skis.)
All the Valley Blanche variations were skied on Friday 21/02, (good snow, in the process of being transformed,). The Salle à Manger passes reasonably well. There are still some plates of icy snow on the Vallée Noire, but it is OK.
There is a lack of snow in the lower part, but the last two snowfalls have made it possible, (for the moment,) to ski within 50m of the ice cave without too much bare ice or rocks. After the Salle à Manger it is best to keep to the true right bank until the junction with the Leschaux glacier.
During this holiday period the lifts, (Aiguille du Midi and Montenvers train) are very busy. Think about reserving a “benne”, (Aig du Midi) and having spare time at the end of the day.
Some information on the "couloirs", (the conditions can change rapidly.)
- Cosmiques couloir and Rond glacier: very hard snow at the top, walking foreseen from below the ancient Para station or the Combe des Glaciers.
- Gervasutti couloir on the Tour Ronde is skiable but better suited for alpinism!
- Capucin couloir has been done; no further information.
- NNE of the Courtes (the summit part is probably fairly dry) and the Col des Cristaux were skied with good snow on 20/02.
- Aiguille d’Argentière: Barbey couloir was skied last weekend, (“concrete” high up, better on the lower two thirds.) No information for the “Y” this winter.
Concerning the ice gullies: little or no change since the last update of 12/02, (most of the climbing is in the Valley Blanche sector.) The ice plating on « Beyond Good Evil” is now very thin.
The approach behind the Requin was tracked by ski on 20/02. (Ice is Nice : looks thin but with ice + Sorenson Eastman: the bergschrund is no longer passable, need to use the rocks, then good conditions until the narrow gully near the top which is very dry.)
No major changes concerning the hiking or snowshoe trails. Likewise, for the icefalls.
